We had to take a little break this week so are offering a repost of our musings about the allure of pleats, the history of pleating, and our favourite designer examples of pleats. See links below. Please check out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast Vogue, Sacai, Resort 2019: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2019/sacai/slideshow/collection#34 Lassner Plissee, History of Plissee (in German): http://lassner-plissee.de/Geschichte/geschichte.html Business of Fashion, 'Inside Chanel's Subsidiary, Lognon, Pleater' (2015): www.youtube.com/watch?v=h_GU0uOgNrc Refinery29, 'How a Dior Dress is Made' (2015): www.youtube.com/watch?v=FT1Fc92-eFY The Hunt Museum, Sybil Connolly, online exhibition (2018): www.huntmuseum.com/explore-the-exhibition/ Elizabeth Kutesko, 'How Can We Decolonise Fashion History? A Case Study: the Guarani-Kaiowá, Mato Grosso do Sul, Brazil', Research Forum, Courtauld Institute (8/2/2019): https://courtauld.ac.uk/whats-on/how-can-we-decolonise-fashion-history-a-case-study-the-guarani-kaiowa-mato-grosso-do-sul-brazil/ Elizabeth Kutesko, 'Fashioning Brazil Globalization and the Representation of Brazilian Dress in National Geographic' (2018): www.bloomsbury.com/uk/fashioning-b…-9781350026605/

We talk about an inspiring discussion between Priya Ahluwalia, Es Devlin and Gaika, chaired by Daze Aghaji about ‘creativity in a time of crisis’. See links below. Please check out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast ‘Imagining the Impossible: Creativity in a time of Crisis’, Barbican (16 June 2022): https://www.barbican.org.uk/whats-on/2022/event/imagining-the-impossible-creativity-in-a-time-of-crisis Our Time on Earth, The Curve, Barbican (5 May - 29 Aug 2022): https://www.barbican.org.uk/whats-on/2022/event/our-time-on-earth https://ahluwalia.world/ https://esdevlin.com/ https://gaika.warp.net/ https://www.instagram.com/dazeaghaji

We discuss Jean Harlow’s amazing star persona, as seen in ‘Platinum Blonde’ and ‘Dinner at Eight’. See links below. We’d love you to support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast Frank Capra (director), Edward Stevenson (costume design), ‘Platinum Blonde’ (1931): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0022268/ George Cukor (director), Adrian (gowns), ‘Dinner at Eight’ (1933): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0023948/ Robert Mack (director), ‘Come to Dinner’ (1934) https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x7p71yv Richard Dyer, ‘White’ (2017, first published 1997): https://www.routledge.com/White-Twentieth-Anniversary-Edition/Dyer/p/book/9781138683044# George Hurrell, Jean Harlow (1934): https://lagunaartmuseum.org/artwork/jean-harlow/ Brassaï (Gyula Halász), La Môme Bijou, Bar de la Lune, Montmartre (1932) : https://www.moma.org/collection/works/58840 RuPaul’s Drag Race’s 28 Days of Drag: 2/2 Snatch Game Sunday (2014): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LMA5MHvA3zA

We catch up with all that’s been happening - and discuss Ukrainian milliner Ruslan Baginskiy and Elizabeth Wilson’s new book 'Unfolding the Past'. See links below. We’d love you to support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast Unravelling Threads: Tracing and Transforming Violence and Trauma through Fashion, Conference, The Courtauld Institute / LCF (6-7 May 2022): https://courtauld.ac.uk/whats-on/unravelling-threads-tracing-and-transforming-violence-and-trauma-though-fashion/ Documenting Fashion Blog: https://sites.courtauld.ac.uk/documentingfashion/ Ruslan Blaginsky: https://www.instagram.com/ruslanbaginskiy_hats/ and https://ruslanbaginskiy.com/ Elizabeth Wilson, ‘Unfolding the Past’, Bloomsbury (2022): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/unfolding-the-past-9781350232617/ ‘Dressed: 7 Women – 200 Years of Fashion’, MK&G, Hamburg (25 February – 28 August 2022): https://www.mkg-hamburg.de/en/exhibitions/dressed Charlie Porter,’What Artists Wear’, Penguin (2021): https://www.penguin.co.uk/books/314/314590/what-artists-wear/9780141991252.html

In our season finale we discuss Ralph Lauren’s special edition Polo collection conceived in collaboration with Spelman and Morehouse colleges, and play another round of our favourite game 'If I was a …', this time focused on fashion illustration. New season premiere: 22 May. See links below. Robin Givhan, ‘The Battle of Versailles’ (2015): https://us.macmillan.com/books/9781250052902/thebattleofversailles Robin Givhan, ‘Ralph Lauren revises his vision of the American Dream, inspired by the style of HBCUs’, The Washington Post (15 March 2022): https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/2022/03/15/ralph-lauren-morehouse-spelman-hbcu/ The Crisis, Modernist Journals Project: https://modjourn.org/journal/crisis/ https://www.instagram.com/anfeargorm4/ Bea Feitler after Joe Eula, ‘Lauren Bacall and the Boys’, 1968: https://www.si.edu/object/lauren-bacall-and-boys%3Anpg_NPG.2007.161 Francesca Gavin, ‘The Pioneering Female Art Director You've Never Heard Of’, AnOther (8 September 2017): https://www.anothermag.com/art-photography/10134/the-pioneering-female-art-director-youve-never-heard-of Joe Eula (director), The Paris Collections: Fall Fashion Preview (1968): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1596760/ ‘Lauren Bacall: The Look’, FIT, New York (3 March 2015 – 4 April 2015): https://exhibitions.fitnyc.edu/lauren-bacall/exhibition/#grid-page Eric (Carl Erickson), Evening blouse, Hattie Carnegie, for Vogue (1943)

We talk about the joys of archival research and marvel at Mervyn Le Roy’s Depression-era musical ‘Gold Diggers of 1933’. Westminster Archives: https://www.westminster.gov.uk/leisure-libraries-and-community/westminster-archives Historical Directories of England and Wales: http://specialcollections.le.ac.uk/digital/collection/p16445coll4 and http://specialcollections.le.ac.uk/digital/collection/p16445coll4/custom/background Gaston and Andrée Exerciser: http://www.kraveantiques.co.uk/products/Gaston-Andree-Exerciser-1897.html Rogue Fitness, ‘The Rogue Legends Series – Chapter 1: Eugen Sandow / 8K’ (25 May 2017): https://youtu.be/S-nPD2__e0E Mervyn LeRoy (director), Orry-Kelly (gowns), ‘Gold Diggers of 1933’ (1933): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0024069/ Orry-Kelly, ‘Women I’ve Undressed: The Fabulous Life and Times of a Legendary Hollywood Designer’, Allen & Unwin (2016): https://atlantic-books.co.uk/book/women-ive-undressed/ Mordaunt Hall, ‘Warren William, Aline MacMahon and Guy Kibbee in a Musical Conception of “The Gold Diggers”’, New York Times (8 June 1933): https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1933/06/08/105141704.html Library of Congress, Farm Security Administration/Office of War Information Black-and-White Negatives: https://www.loc.gov/collections/fsa-owi-black-and-white-negatives/about-this-collection/ Paul Dickson and Thomas B. Allen, ‘Marching on History’, Smithsonian Magazine (February 2003): https://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/marching-on-history-75797769/

Beatrice takes Rebecca through every stage necessary in turning an item of clothing into a museum object. See links below. https://www.rotring.com/ Emily Spivack, ‘A History of Sequins from King Tut to the King of Pop’, Smithsonian Magazine (28 December 2012): https://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-culture/a-history-of-sequins-from-king-tut-to-the-king-of-pop-8035/ Collections Trust, ‘Spectrum-related resources’: https://collectionstrust.org.uk/spectrum-resources/ Collections Trust ‘Standards in the museum care of costume and textile collections’: https://collectionstrust.org.uk/resource/standards-in-the-museum-care-of-costume-and-textile-collections/ Western Australian Museum, ‘Freezing Objects’ (30 June 2017): https://youtu.be/JSFmC6-K5nA Museum of London, ‘How to Store a Wedding Dress’ (16 September 2013): https://youtu.be/eHcQug5ZJd4

While we take a little mid season break let’s revisit our 100th episode about the fabulous clothes and make-up in Powell and Pressburger’s 1948 film ‘The Red Shoes’. See links below. Michael Powell and Emeric Pressburger (directors), Hein Heckroth (costume design), The Red Shoes (1948): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0040725/ Wardrobe and dresses of Ludmilla Tchérina: Dorothy Edwards Additional dresses for Ludmilla Tchérina: Carven Dresses for Moira Shearer: Jacques Fath and Mattli Make-up artists: George Blackler, Eric Carter, Ernest Gasser Michael Powell, A Life in Movies: An Autobiography (1986): http://www.powell-pressburger.org/Reviews/Micky/ALIM.html Hein Heckroth: Film Designer, Deutsches Film Institut, Filmmuseum, Berlin (28 March – 25 August 1991): https://www.dff.film/ausstellung/hein-heckroth-film-designer/ and http://www.shop-filmmuseum.de/Katalog-Hein-Heckroth-Film-Designer Villa Léopolda: https://www.pop.culture.gouv.fr/notice/memoire/APGLT03800 Matthew Bourne, The Red Shoes: https://new-adventures.net/the-red-shoes#overview Douglas Keeve (director), Unzipped (1995): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0114805/

We talk about the fabulous Gladys Perint Palmer whose fashion drawings were shown in an exhibition curated by Gray MCA. See links below. ‘A fine Line in Fashion: The Art of Gladys Perint Palmer’, Gray MCA, Cromwell Place, London (15-20 February 2022): https://graymca.com/ Gray MCA, ‘In the Studio with Gladys Perint Palmer’ (11 September 2021): https://vimeo.com/602673726 Gladys Perint Palmer: https://gladysperintpalmer.com/ Paris in Love (2021): https://youtu.be/CUS8XatG1HY The Courtauld, Prints and Drawings: https://courtauld.ac.uk/gallery/the-collection/prints-and-drawings/ Charles Baudelaire, ‘The Painter of Modern Life’ (originally published in 1863): https://www.poetryintranslation.com/PITBR/French/BaudelaireThePainterOfModernLife.php

We talk about the powerful and moving Second World War and Holocaust Galleries at the Imperial War Museum. See links below. Imperial War Museum, London: https://www.iwm.org.uk/visits/iwm-london Second World War Galleries: https://www.iwm.org.uk/events/second-world-war-galleries The Holocaust Galleries: https://www.iwm.org.uk/events/the-holocaust-galleries https://www.iwm.org.uk/support-us/donations/second-world-war-and-holocaust-galleries Jonathan Freedland, ‘Imperial War Museum Holocaust Galleries review – history’s greatest horror’, The Guardian (11 October 2021): https://www.theguardian.com/culture/2021/oct/11/imperial-war-museum-london-holocaust-gallery-review ‘The Holocaust Galleries - Imperial War Museum, London’, Casson Mann (2021): https://www.cassonmann.com/projects/holocaust-galleries Vikki Hawkins, ‘Displaying marginalised and “hidden” histories at the Imperial War Museum London: The Second World War gallery regeneration project’, War & Society, Volume 39, Issue 3 (2020): https://doi.org/10.1080/07292473.2020.1786895 Museum of London: https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/west-smithfield/relocation-west-smithfield

We talk about Nadya Wang’s brilliant analysis of the work of photographer Yip Cheong Fun and the amazing style of Cab Calloway and the Nicholas Brothers. See links below. Nadya Wang, ‘Framing the Body: Yip Cheong Fun and Singapore Photography in the 1960s and 1970s’, part of ‘Addressing Images, The Courtauld (28 January 2022): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0grnWoBZXok Fred Waller (director), Cab Calloway’s Hi-De-Ho (1933): https://www.parkcircus.com/film/109262-Cab-Calloway's-Hi-De-Ho and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=spBLdH5mtyk Fred Waller (director), Jitterbug Party (1934): https://www.parkcircus.com/film/109355-Jitterbug-Party and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mMQVZYoNWIw Billy Wilder (director), Some Like It Hot (1959): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0053291/ Andrew L. Stone (director), Helen Rose (costume design), Stormy Weather (1943): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0036391/ Clip from Stormy Weather (1943): https://cabcallowayfoundation.org/cab-calloway-bill-robinson-nicholas-brothers-stormy-weather/ Cab Calloway at the Smithsonian: https://www.si.edu/search/collection-images?edan_local=&edan_q=cab%2Bcalloway& Cab Calloway on the Zoot Suit, Docs & Interviews on MV (20 March 1986): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-3JuVFJrY8 Dave Fleischer (director), Willard Bowsky and Ralph Somerville (animators), Betty Boob - Minnie The Moocher (1932): https://youtu.be/N7VUU_VPI1E

We talk about London’s Fashion & Textile Museum’s exhibition: ‘Beautiful People: The Boutique in 1960s Counterculture’. See links below. Don’t forget to check out Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast The Courtauld Gallery, London: https://courtauld.ac.uk/gallery/ ‘Beautiful People: The Boutique in 1960s Counterculture’, Fashion & Textile Museum, London (1 October 2021 - 13 March 2022): https://fashiontextilemuseum.org/exhibitions/beautiful-people-the-boutique-in-1960s-counterculture Mark Butterfield, ‘Granny Takes A Trip, Golden Lily Jacket, 1966’, C20 Vintage Fashion (20 September 2020): https://www.c20vintagefashion.co.uk/post/granny-takes-a-trip-golden-lily-jacket-1966 and other posts: https://www.c20vintagefashion.co.uk/blog The Peter Feely Experience, Perfumed Garden Productions, YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCDZKLKwxbpv1vc9lfBO0kAw/featured Malcolm Hall: http://malcolmhall.london/gallery/#category_id_48 Paul Reeves: https://www.instagram.com/paul_reeves_london/ Marisa Martin: https://www.marisamartin.com/tutors.html Raphael Samuel, ‘Theatres of Memory: Past and Present in Contemporary Culture’, Verso (first published 1994): https://www.versobooks.com/books/1098-theatres-of-memory

We talk about Lucy Moyse Ferreira’s fascinating, recently launched book ‘Danger in the Path of Chic: Violence in Fashion between the Wars’. See links below. Don’t forget to check out Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast Robin Givhan, ‘André Leon Talley became an icon by never losing faith in the glory of fashion’, Washington Post (19 January 2022): https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/2022/01/19/andre-leon-talley-appreciation/ André Leon Talley, ‘A.L.T.: A Memoir’ (Villlard 2003) André Leon Talley, ‘The Chiffon Trenches: A Memoir’, read by ATM (Penguin Random House 2020): https://www.penguinrandomhouseaudio.com/book/609773/the-chiffon-trenches/ ‘Helen Levitt: In the Street’, The Photographers’ Gallery, London (15 October 2021 – 13 February 2022): https://thephotographersgallery.org.uk/whats-on/helen-levitt-retrospective Lucy Moyse Ferreira, ‘Danger in the Path of Chic: Violence in Fashion between the Wars’ (Bloomsbury Publishing 2021): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/danger-in-the-path-of-chic-9781350126282/ Lucy Moyse Ferreira: https://www.arts.ac.uk/research/ual-staff-researchers/lucy-moyse-ferreira

We delve into Jacques Demy’s weird, psychedelic fairy story ‘Peau d’âne’ (1970) and wonder about its many meanings. See links below. Don’t forget to check out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast Jacques Demy (director), Agostino Pace (costume design), Gitt Magrini (costume realisation), Peau d’âne (1970): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0066207/ Charles Perrault, ‘Donkey Skin’, from: Charles Perrault, ‘Old-Time Stories told by Master Charles Perrault’, translated by A. E. Johnson, New York: Dodd Mead and Company (1921): https://sites.pitt.edu/~dash/perrault11.html Charles Perrault, ‘Contes des fees ...’ (1817): https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k6214877h/f181.item and https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k6214877h/f206.item Célia Bellache, ‘Les costumes et décors de Peau d’Âne de Jacques Demy’, Florilèges (2 January 2021): https://florilegeswebjournal.com/2021/01/02/les-costumes-et-decors-de-peau-dane-de-jacques-demy/ Rodney Hill, ‘Donkey Skin (Peau d’âne)’, Film Quarterly, 59/2 (Winter 2005/2006): https://doi.org/10.1525/fq.2005.59.2.40 Anne E. Duggan, ‘The Camping of “Donkey Skin”: Jacques Demy’s Cinematic Re-Vision of a Classic Tale’, in: Queer Enchantments: Gender Sexuality, and Class in the Fairy-Tale Cinema of Jacques Demy, Wayne State University Press (2013) Natalie Olah, ‘Jim Leon’, Dazed (28 October 2012): https://www.dazeddigital.com/artsandculture/article/14960/1/jim-leon Videos relating to the filming of Peau d’âne: https://www.cinematheque.fr/zooms/demy/en/toutes_les_videos.php Anna Biller: https://www.lifeofastar.com/index.html Anna Biller (director and much else), ‘The Love Witch’ (2016): https://www.lifeofastar.com/lovewitch.html and https://www.imdb.com/title/tt3908142/ Taking care of your Lederhosen: https://www.spieth-wensky.de/trachtentrends/lederhosenhandbuch/

We discuss our beloved Jean Paul Gaultier’s obsession with the 1945 film ‘Falbalas’ and why it led him into fashion design. See links below. Don’t forget to check out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast The Courtauld Gallery: https://courtauld.ac.uk/gallery/ Mitchell Leisen (director), Travis Banton (costumes), 'Hands Across the Table' (1935): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0026452/ ‘Dialogue avec Jean Paul Gaultier’, Cinémathèque Française (6 October 2021 – 16 January 2022): https://www.cinematheque.fr/video/1711.html Jean Paul Gaultier, Last Couture Show, Théâtre du Châtelet, Paris, 22 January 2020, NOWFASHION (uploaded 24 January 2020): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tYDyi-B1FuU Jacques Becker (director), Marcel Rochas (gowns), Falbalas (1945): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0035853/ Paul Devine, ‘Jacques Becker’s Falbalas getting Blu-Ray Release’, The Peoples Movies (27 September 2021): https://thepeoplesmovies.com/2021/09/jacques-beckers-falbalas-getting-blu-ray-release/ See also our previous episode (132) about Falbalas: https://soundcloud.com/bande-a-part-rb/132-falbalas

We are catching a glimpse of life behind the scenes at Maison Drécoll in Paris in Tony Lekain’s 1923 film ‘On demande un mannequin’. See links below. Please check out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast Tony Lekain (director), ‘On demande un mannequin’ (1923): https://www.cinematheque.fr/henri/film/103077-on-demande-un-mannequin-tony-lekain-1923/ and https://www.imdb.com/title/tt16102410/ Didier Chappet, ‘Casque d’Or et les Apaches’ (8 January 2018): https://gallica.bnf.fr/blog/08012018/casque-dor-et-les-apaches?mode=desktop ‘Cinémode par Jean Paul Gaultier’, Cinémathèque Française (6 October 2021 – January 2022): https://www.cinematheque.fr/cycle/exposition-cinemode-par-jean-paul-611.html Birgit Haase and Adelheid Rasche, ‘Christoph Drecoll: Rediscovering the Viennese Worth’, Costume, Volume 53, Issue 2 (2019): https://www.euppublishing.com/doi/full/10.3366/cost.2019.0120 Images of Maison Drecoll: https://bibliotheques-specialisees.paris.fr/ark:/73873/pf0001614300.locale and https://bibliotheques-specialisees.paris.fr/ark:/73873/pf0001680232.locale and https://bibliotheques-specialisees.paris.fr/ark:/73873/pf0001615180.locale Julien Duvivier (director), Gerlaur / Marthe Pinchaud (costume design), Au Bonheur des Dames (1930): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0020656/ John Julius Norwich (ed), The Duff Cooper Diaries: 1915-1951, Weidenfeld & Nicholson (2006): https://www.weidenfeldandnicolson.co.uk/titles/john-julius-norwich/the-duff-cooper-diaries/9780753821053/ Hebe (née Constance Irene Vesselier, later Mrs Kingsland): https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/person/mp123322/hebe-ne-constance-irene-vesselier-later-mrs-kingsland Eve And Everybody’s Film Review: http://bufvc.ac.uk/newsonscreen/search/index.php/series/80 Jenny Hammerton, ‘For Ladies Only? Eve’s Film Review: Pathe Cinemagazine 1921-33’, Projection Box (2001) Perspex Samples: https://www.hindleys.com/perspex-samples.html Christmas Trees, Cox & Cox: https://www.coxandcox.co.uk/christmas/christmas-trees/

We talk about the amazing costume designer Sandy Powell who recently talked about her work at the Victoria & Albert Museum. See links below. We’d also love you to check out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast You Must Remember This, ‘Gossip Girls: Louella Parsons and Hedda Hopper (The Queer, Female Film Producer You’ve Never Heard Of, Episode 5)’, (31 May 2021): http://www.youmustrememberthispodcast.com/episodes/2021/5/5/gossip-girls-queer-film-producer-5 Walter Lang (director), Travis Banton (Miss Lombard’s gowns), Brymer (other gowns), ‘Love Before Breakfast’ (1936): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0027908/ Gregory La Cava (director), Travis Banton (Miss Lombard’s gowns), Brymer (other gowns), ‘My Man Godfrey’ (1936): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0028010/ Richard Dyer, ‘White’, Routledge (2017, first published 1997): https://www.routledge.com/White-Twentieth-Anniversary-Edition/Dyer/p/book/9781138683044 Past event: ‘Online Talk: Sandy Powell in Conversation’, Victoria & Albert Museum (7 November 2021): https://www.vam.ac.uk/event/awz4mQnapkN/online-talk-sandy-powell-in-conversation Sandy Powell: https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0694309/ Sandy Powell’s Autograph Suit auctioned at Phillips in 2020: https://www.phillips.com/detail/sandy-powell/UK090320/1 The Female Lead: https://www.thefemalelead.com/about-us Piere Bourdieu, Yvette Delsaut, ‘Le couturier et sa griffe: contribution à une théorie de la magie’, Actes de la Recherche en Siences Sociales (1-1, 1975): https://www.persee.fr/doc/arss_0335-5322_1975_num_1_1_2447 Colleen Kelsey, ‘Fashioning Sandy Powell’, Interview (18 February 2016): https://www.interviewmagazine.com/film/sandy-powell ‘Behind the Seams: An interview with Sandy Powell’, podcast episode (7 June 2020): https://www.angelsbehindtheseams.com/podcast/episode0010/ ‘Emily Blunt on the costumes of “Mary Poppins Returns”’, Variety Artisans (20 December 2018): https://youtu.be/BiYgPfpjSCk Julie Miller, ‘How Sandy Powell, Oscar-Winning Costume Designer, Ventured Outside Her Comfort Zone’, Vanity Fair (6 November 2017): https://www.vanityfair.com/hollywood/2017/11/wonderstruck-sandy-powell ‘The Rake’s Progress: An Introduction’, Glyndebourne (23 August 2010) – shows David Hockney’s designs: https://youtu.be/DxeeWlp4AZ8 Alex Marshall, ‘Lindsay Kemp, Dancer Who Taught David Bowie, Is Dead at 80’, New York Times (29 August 2018): https://www.nytimes.com/2018/08/29/obituaries/lindsay-kemp-dead.html ‘Lindsay Kemp Dies at 80’, Gramilano (25 August 2018): https://www.gramilano.com/2018/08/lindsay-kemp-dies-at-80/ Kazuo Ono, ‘The Dead Sea’ (1980s): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZUjhQLB0hXY

Even super-heroes sometimes need a little break ... This week we are reposting our discussion from about a year ago of John Lewis Curthoys' 1941 film ‘Border Weave’, produced by the British Council about the production of woollen textiles in the Scottish Borders, but also about empire, national identity and tradition versus modernity. See links below. Merel on Etsy: https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/mereltreasures MoMu Antwerp: https://www.momu.be/en/ British Council Film Archive: https://film.britishcouncil.org/resources/film-archive John Lewis Curthoys (director), Border Weave (1941): https://film.britishcouncil.org/resources/film-archive/border-weave John Lewis Curthoys and George Wynn (directors), Their Great Adventure (1948): http://collections-search.bfi.org.uk/web/Details/ChoiceFilmWorks/150057853 George Wynn: https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0943964/ Jack Cardiff: https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0002153/bio Joseph Todd Gordon Macleod: https://www.poetryfoundation.org/poets/joseph-gordon-macleod London Cloth Company: http://www.londoncloth.com/ David Parkinson, ‘Where to begin with Humphrey Jennings’, BFI (19 August 2019): https://www2.bfi.org.uk/news-opinion/news-bfi/features/where-begin-humphrey-jennings

We talk about the thought-provoking exhibition of Helen Levitt’s work at the Photographer’s Gallery in London. See links below. ‘Helen Levitt: In the Street’, The Photographers’ Gallery, London (15 October 2021 – 13 February 2022): https://thephotographersgallery.org.uk/whats-on/helen-levitt-retrospective Photographers’ Gallery, ‘Helen Levitt: In The Street - Interview with exhibition curators Walter Moser & Anna Dannemann’ (26 October 2021): https://youtu.be/IfvaZBoIuYw Helen Levitt, Janice Loeb, James Agee, ‘In The Street’ (1948), The Metropolitan Museum of Art: https://youtu.be/hznvV2bBkX4?t=194 ‘Tomorrow is Ragamuffin Day’, New York Genealogical and Biographical Society (23 November 2016): https://www.newyorkfamilyhistory.org/blog/tomorrow-ragamuffin-day Vincente Minelli (director), Irene (costume supervisor), ‘Meet Me in St. Louis’ (1944): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0037059/ ‘Helen Levitt’s Indelible Eye’, All Things Considered, National Public Radio (17 January 2002): https://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=1136521 (interview with Helen Levitt by Melissa Block) Hamleys: https://www.hamleys.com/ Wilterminus, ‘The Sound of dial-up Internet’ (10 November 2008): https://youtu.be/gsNaR6FRuO0

In our Halloween Special, we learn how magic and fashion combine in Anna Biller’s fabulous technicolour extravaganza ‘The Love Witch’. See links below. Anna Biller: https://www.lifeofastar.com/index.html Anna Biller (director and much else), ‘The Love Witch’ (2016): https://www.lifeofastar.com/lovewitch.html and https://www.imdb.com/title/tt3908142/ ‘#8 - Anna Biller, Filmmaker of “The Love Witch”, a conversation with Pam Grossman of The Witch Wave (31 January 2018): https://witchwavepodcast.com/episodes/2018/1/31/anna-biller-filmmaker-of-the-love-witch Emma Willis (key makeup artist): https://www.instagram.com/emmawillishmu/ Jester Puppet: Barry Morse https://www.instagram.com/barry_morse_artist/ Jacques Demy (director), Gitt Magrini (costume design), ‘Peau d’âne’ (1970): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0066207/ Laird Borrelli-Persson, ‘The Secret Life of the Arrow Collar Man, an Early 20th-Century Sex Symbol’, Vogue (12 June 2017): https://www.vogue.com/article/pride-2017-leyendecker-arrow-collar-man-sex-symbol Rains: https://www.uk.rains.com/collections/bags

We talk about the V&A’s fantastical exhibition ‘Alice: Curiouser and Curiouser’ about the influence of Lewis Carroll’s novel ‘Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland’. See links below. ‘Alice: Curiouser and Curiouser’, Victoria & Albert Museum, London (to 31 December 2021); https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/alice-curiouser-and-curiouser Jonathan Jones, ‘Alice: Curiouser and Curiouser review – a wonderful tumble down the rabbit hole’, The Guardian (18 May 2021): https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2021/may/18/alice-curiouser-and-curiouser-victoria-and-albert-museum-london Claire Marie Healy, ‘How Alice in Wonderland Became Visual Culture’s Proto-Teenage Girl’, AnOther (21 May 2021): https://www.anothermag.com/design-living/13338/how-alice-in-wonderland-became-visual-culture-s-proto-teenage-girl Tim Spears, ‘alice: curiouser and curiouser preview in wonderland at V&A museum, london’, designboom (21 May 2021): https://www.designboom.com/art/alice-curiouser-and-curiouser-exhibition-preview-va-museum-london-05-21-2021/ Jonathan Miller (director), Kenneth Morey (costume design), ‘Alice in Wonderland’ (1966): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0060089/ Laird Borrelli-Persson, ‘“Alice in Wonderland” Shoot With Annie Leibovitz and Grace Coddington, on Episode 6 of In Vogue: The 2000s’ (12 October 2021): https://www.vogue.com/article/in-vogue-the-2000s-podcast-episode-6 Laura Connelly, ‘Tim Walker inspired by Alice in Wonderland for Pirelli Calendar's 45th edition’, Creative Boom (22 November 2017): https://www.creativeboom.com/inspiration/tim-walker-inspired-by-alice-in-wonderland-for-pirelli-calendars-45th-edition/

We talk about the fascinating photographs of Namsa Leuba and what we learned from her recent online conversation with Nomusa Makhubu, organised by London’s Photographers’ Gallery. See links below. http://www.namsaleuba.com/ Artist Talk: Namsa Leuba, Photographers’ Gallery, London (12 October 2021): https://thephotographersgallery.org.uk/whats-on/artist-talk-namsa-leuba Miss Rosen, ‘Namsa Leuba’s kaleidoscopic photographs explore the politics of the gaze’, Dazed (13 October 2021): https://www.dazeddigital.com/art-photography/article/54348/1/namsa-leuba-kaleidoscopic-photographs-explore-politics-of-the-gaze-crossed-looks Namsa Leuba, ‘Crossed Looks’, Halsey Institute of Contemporary Art at The College of Charleston (27 August – 11 December 2021): https://halsey.cofc.edu/main-exhibitions/crossed-looks/ Helen Jennings, ‘Namsa Leuba’, Nataal (2016): https://nataal.com/namsa-leuba Esther Mahlangu, South African History Online (2015/2021): https://www.sahistory.org.za/people/esther-mahlangu

We talk about the Brixton films of Clovis Salmon, aka Sam the Wheels, celebrated at a recent event which included a filmed portrait of ‘Super Sam’ by Sandi Hudson-Francis. See links below. And ... we are on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast Sam The Wheels – Local Brixton films 1960-2008: https://www.samthewheels.co.uk/ ‘Jesus Saves’ film at Mutiny Arts: http://www.mutinyarts.co.uk/jesussaves ‘”I went wherever there was fighting”: how Sam the Wheels filmed Brixton ablaze’, The Guardian (4 October 2021): https://www.theguardian.com/film/2021/oct/04/everything-burn-sam-wheels-filmed-brixton-ablaze-uprisings-black-britain-clovis-salmon Sandi Hudson-Francis (director), ‘Super Sam’ (2021): https://www.sandihudsonfrancis.com/film/super-sam-trailer 198 Contemporary Arts & Learning: https://www.198.org.uk/ ‘Sam the Wheels - The Great Conflict, Brixton Riots & other films (24 February – 22 April 2017): https://autograph.org.uk/exhibitions/the-great-conflict-brixton-riots-other-films ‘Sam the Wheels’, The Anthill Social: http://theanthillsocial.co.uk/archive/samthewheels/ Carol Tulloch, ‘The Birth of Cool: Style Narratives and the African Diaspora’, Bloomsbury (2016): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/birth-of-cool-9781474262873/

We talk about Clint Ramos’ fabulous costume designs for ‘Respect’, the film about Aretha Franklin – played by Jennifer Hudson – and directed by Liesl Tommy. See links below. And ... we are now on Patreon! Have a look at our page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast Thebe Magugu: https://www.instagram.com/thebemagugu/?hl=en and https://www.instagram.com/tv/CUaJESrgo9J/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link Liesl Tommy (director), Clint Ramos (costume designer), ‘Respect’ (2021): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt2452150/ ‘Respect’ microsite: https://www.universalpictures.co.uk/micro/respect Erica Gonazles, ‘Aretha Franklin Used Clothing for Protection, to Take Up Space, and to Make Herself Heard’, Harpers Bazaar (13 August 2021): https://www.harpersbazaar.com/culture/film-tv/a37280291/aretha-franklin-respect-costumes/ Liam Freeman, ‘Respect Costume Designer Clint Ramos on Aretha Franklin’s soulful style’, Vogue (11 August 2021): https://www.vogue.com/article/respect-costume-designer-clint-ramos-aretha-franklin-style Alan Elliott, Sydney Pollack (directors): ‘Amazing Grace’ (1972): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt4935462/ ABC News Special, ‘Aretha Franklin Close Up’ (1968): https://youtu.be/toUteDkwcb0 Aretha Franklin, ‘Don't Play That Song’, Live on the Cliff Richard Show (1970): https://youtu.be/EtTn5aLXZZg Aretha Franklin at Julien’s Auctions: https://www.julienslive.com/search?key=aretha%20franklin

We talk about Rebecca’s visit to the wonderful ‘Drawing on Style’ fashion illustration exhibition curated by Gray M.C.A. at Cromwell Place in London. See links below. And ... we are now on Patreon! Have a look at our page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast ‘Drawing on Style’, hosted by Gray M.C.A, Wing Gallery (16 – 26 September 2021): https://cromwellplace.com/whats-on/drawing-on-style Gray M.C.A., Bath: https://graymca.com/ Poppy Waddilove: https://poppywaddilove.com/ Frida Wannerberger: https://www.fridawannerberger.com/ Richard Haines: https://www.instagram.com/richard_haines/ Victoria Thorne: https://www.instagram.com/victoriathorne/ Jimmie Henslee: https://www.instagram.com/hensleejimmie/ L Gazette du Bon Ton and other French fashion magazines: https://gallica.bnf.fr/html/und/presse-et-revues/presse-de-mode?mode=desktop ProQuest Historical Newspapers – Black Newspapers: https://about.proquest.com/en/products-services/histnews-bn/ The Afro Archives: https://www.afro.com/archives/ Alison Toplis, ‘The Hidden History of the Smock Frock’, Bloomsbury (2021): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/the-hidden-history-of-the-smock-frock-9781350126114/

We discuss Kim K’s Met Gala outfit which made anonymity spectacular, and Rebecca’s recent essay on Kanye for MoMu’s ‘E/Motion: Fashion in Transition’ exhibition catalogue. See links below. And ... we are now on Patreon! Have a look at our page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast ‘E/Motion. Fashion in Transition’, MoMu, Antwerp (4 September 2021 – 23 January 2022): https://www.momu.be/en/exhibitions/emotion-en Elisa de Wyngaert, Rebecca Arnold, Caroline Evans, ‘Emotion’ (2021): https://www.lannoopublishers.com/en/emotion-0 www.jackienickerson.com and https://www.instagram.com/jackie_nickerson/ ‘In America: A Lexicon of Fashion’, Costume Institute, Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York (18 September 2021 – 22 September 2022): https://www.metmuseum.org/exhibitions/listings/2021/in-america

We marvel at the brightly coloured resort wear in Agnes Varda’s 1958 film ‘Du Côté de la Côte’ shot in the beautiful south of France. See links below. And ... we are now on Patreon! Have a look at our page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast ‘Charlotte Perriand: The Modern Life’, official catalogue of the exhibition of the same name at the Design Museum, London (ended 5 September 2021): https://designmuseumshop.com/products/charlotte-perriand-the-modern-life-exhibition-catalogue La Revue de Cinéma: https://www.instagram.com/larevuedecinema Agnes Varda (director), Du Côté de la Côte (Along the Coast) (1958): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0051561/ and https://www.criterionchannel.com/du-cote-de-la-cote Darragh O’Donoghue, ‘Du côté de la côte’, Senses of Cinema (June 2014): https://www.sensesofcinema.com/2014/cteq/du-cote-de-la-cote/

We discuss the beautiful exhibition of photographs by James Barnor at the Serpentine Gallery in London. See links below. And ... we are now on Patreon! Check out our page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast ‘James Barnor: Accra/London – A Retrospective’, Serpentine Gallery, London (19 May – 24 October 2021): https://www.serpentinegalleries.org/whats-on/james-barnor/ ‘Portraits of the Future: A Celebration of James Barnor’ (31 March 2021): https://youtu.be/AqhWdoMOWTQ ‘James Barnor: Ghanaian Modernist’, Bristol Museum & Art Gallery (18 May – 31 October 2021): https://www.bristolmuseums.org.uk/bristol-museum-and-art-gallery/whats-on/bristol-photo-festival-james-barnor-ghanaian-modernist/ Autograph, ‘James Barnor: Ever Young’ (12 June 2020): https://autograph.org.uk/blog/james-barnor-ever-young-newspaper/ (free download of Autograph’s James Barnor exhibition newspaper) ‘Ever Young: James Barnor’, Autograph (2010): https://vimeo.com/50701534 ‘Drum Magazine’, South African History Online (not dated): https://www.sahistory.org.za/article/drum-magazine Maria Stepanova (translated by Sasha Dugdale), ‘In Memory of Memory’, Fitzcarraldo Editions (2021) Dan Hancox, ‘Inner City Pressure: The Story of Grime’, Harper Collins (2019): https://harpercollins.co.uk/products/inner-city-pressure-the-story-of-grime-dan-hancox Isaac Mirahi, ‘I.M.’, Flatiron Books (2020): https://us.macmillan.com/books/9781250077820

We discuss the wonderful morning we spent with designer Omer Asim and his collaborator Maya Antoun - looking at their beautiful and inspiring work that unites body and fabric in sensual minimalist forms. See links below. We are going to have a break and will be back in September. Have a great summer! http://www.omer-asim.com https://www.instagram.com/omer_asim https://www.instagram.com/maya.antoun/ Omer Asim, SHOWstudio: https://www.showstudio.com/contributors/omer_asim Jenny Pashkova, ‘Omer Asim’, Off Black Magazine (2014): http://offblackmagazine.com/archive/archives/project/omer-asim Helen Jennings, ‘Omer Asim’, Nataal (2017): https://nataal.com/omer-asim ‘Omer Asim: The Stealth SuperBrand’, because magazine (17 June 2020): https://becauselondon.com/fashion/2020/omer-asim-shining-bright-under-the-radar/ Marie Grace Brown, ‘Khartoum at Night: Fashion and Body Politics in Imperial Sudan’, Stanford University Press (2017): https://www.sup.org/books/title/?id=25840 Rebecca Arnold, ‘Vionnet and Classicism’, in Vionnet, Judith Clark Costume (15 March – 16 April 2001): https://judithclarkcostume.com/wp-content/uploads/Judith-Clark-16pp-Vionnet.pdf

We discuss Chusheng Cai’s fascinating 1932 film ‘Pink Dream’ - which shows us the opulent world of Shanghai dance halls …. See links below. ‘Constance Spry and the Fashion for Flowers’, Garden Museum (17 May – 26 September 2021): https://gardenmuseum.org.uk/exhibitions/constancespry/ ‘Noël Coward: Art & Style’, Guildhall Art Gallery (14 June – 23 December 2021): https://www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/things-to-do/attractions-museums-entertainment/guildhall-galleries/guildhall-art-gallery/noel-coward St Olave Hart Street, London, Atlas Obscura: https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/st-olave-hart-street Chusheng Cai (director), Pink Dream [aka Dream in Pink] (1932): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1128062/ Available here: https://archive.org/details/1932pinkdream and https://youtu.be/BuY7pW1dblw Chusheng Cai (director), New Women (1935): https://youtu.be/9Q4zhLxCBro Ernst Lubitsch (director), The Love Parade (1929): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0020112/ (with Jeannette MacDonald) ‘A Good Summary Account of Shanghai’s Dance Hall Industry in 1937’, Shanghai Sojourns: The Website of Andrew David Field (2018): http://shanghaisojourns.net/shanghais-dancing-world/2018/8/2/a-good-summary-account-of-shanghais-dance-hall-industry-in-1937 Lisa Z. Sigel, ‘Fashioning Fetishism from the Pages of “London Life”’, Journal of British Studies, Vol. 51, No. 3 (July 2012): https://www.jstor.org/stable/23265599 Ling Long, Shanghai women’s magazine (1931-1937): https://archive.org/details/cullinglong Wim Wenders (director), Notebook on Cities and Clothes (1989): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0096852/

We talk about the mesmerising Jean Dubuffet exhibition at Barbican Art Gallery in London and the wonderful works of mediumistic artist Madge Gill. See links below. ‘Chintz: Cotton in Bloom’, Fashion and Textile Museum, London (18 May – 12 September 2021): https://www.ftmlondon.org/ftm-exhibitions/chintz-cotton-in-bloom/ ‘Jean Dubuffet: Brutal Beauty’, Barbican Art Gallery, London (17 May 2021 – 22 August 2021): https://www.barbican.org.uk/whats-on/2021/event/jean-dubuffet-brutal-beauty Fondation Jean Dubuffet: https://www.dubuffetfondation.com/ Audiovisual biography of Dubuffet: https://www.dubuffetfondation.com/savie_videolistplayer.php Collection de L’Art Brut, Lausanne: https://www.artbrut.ch/en_GB/exhibition/dubuffet-art-brut Madge Gill: http://madgegill.com/ and https://worksby-madgegill.co/ Madge Gill, Sans Titre (not dated): https://www.artbrut.ch/en_GB/author/gill-madge Dress by Madge Gill at MAAS, Sidney (1940s): https://collection.maas.museum/object/167418 Madge Gill, Newham Heritage Month (May 2021): https://www.newhamheritagemonth.org/contributors/madge-gill/

We talk about Zanele Muholi’s incredible exhibition at Tate Modern in London. See links below. Zanele Muholi, Tate Modern, London (5 November 2020 – 31 May 2021): https://www.tate.org.uk/whats-on/tate-modern/exhibition/zanele-muholi Zanele Muholi: In Conversation with Lady Phyll | Artist's Talk | Tate Exchange (18 November 2020): https://youtu.be/4gzzNRKh2vs Zanele Muholi, ‘Katlego Mashiloane and Nosipho Lavuta, Ext. 2, Lakeside, Johannesburg’ (2007): https://g.co/arts/VhjExsG7BMXQrLsJA Zanele Muholi, ‘Vuyelwa Vuvu Makubetse Daveyton Johannesburg’ (2013): https://www.wellesley.edu/davismuseum/explore-the-collections/recent-acquisitions/vuyelwa-vuvu-makubetse-daveyton-johannesburg Maurice Berger, ‘Zanele Muholi: Paying Homage to the History of Black Women’, New York Times (3 December 2018): https://www.nytimes.com/2018/12/03/lens/zanele-muholi-somnyama-ngonyama-south-africa.html

We discuss the publication of Archivist Addendum - unboxed live on the podcast - and the first title in the new book series Fashion: Visual & Material Interconnections: Alison Toplis’s The Hidden History of the Smock Frock. See links below. Archivist Addendum: Fashion Interpretations: https://tenderbooks.co.uk/products/archivist-addendum Fashion Interpretations: https://sites.courtauld.ac.uk/fashioninterpretations/ Blaak: https://www.showstudio.com/contributors/blaak The Courtauld, ‘Fashion: Visual & Material Interconnections Book Series Launch’ (21 May 2021): https://youtu.be/AANXmdpT7aE Alison Toplis, ‘The Hidden History of the Smock Frock’, Bloomsbury (2021): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/the-hidden-history-of-the-smock-frock-9781350126114/ Alison Toplis’ Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/smockfrock98/ Smocks at The Museum of English Rural Life, Reading: https://tinyurl.com/phnumvb6 Luce Moyse Ferreira, ‘Danger in the Path of Chic: Violence in Fashion between the Wars’, Bloomsbury (2021): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/danger-in-the-path-of-chic-9781350126299/ Alexis Romano: Prêt-à-Porter, Paris and Women: A Cultural Study of French Readymade Fashion, 1945-1968, Bloomsbury (2022): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/pret-a-porter-paris-and-women-9781350126190/

We talk about the work involved in preparing dress and textile objects for a museum collection. See links below. Dress and textiles at the Museum of London: https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/collections/about-our-collections/what-we-collect/dress-and-textiles London’s Fashion Alphabet, Museum of London: https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/museum-london/londons-fashion-alphabet Kim Philpotts’ 1980s/90s clothes: https://tinyurl.com/79t5zpzn Halima Khanom, ‘What Muslims Wear’, Museum of London (18 March 2016): https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/discover/what-muslims-wear Museums and Galleries Commission, ‘An illustrated guide to the care of costume and textile collections’ (2000): https://collectionstrust.org.uk/resource/an-illustrated-guide-to-the-care-of-costume-and-textile-collections/ Resources from DATS (Dress & Textile Specialist network) for identifying and cataloguing dress and textiles: https://www.dressandtextilespecialists.org.uk/dats-toolkits/ and https://www.dressandtextilespecialists.org.uk/links/

We discuss the new Netflix series on Halston - just how accurate is it? And how will they turn fashion design into entertainment? See links below. Daniel Minahan (director), Jeriana San Juan (costume designer), Halston (2021): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt9569546/ Leigh Nordstrom, ‘Cutting the “Halston” Cloth’, WWD (14 May 2021): https://wwd.com/eye/lifestyle/halston-netflix-costumes-ewan-mcgregor-jeriana-san-juan-1234822920/ Netflix Staff, ‘The Fashion Behind Halston’ (13 May 2021): https://about.netflix.com/en/news/the-fashion-behind-halston Maureen Dowd, ‘Ewan McGregor: Dahling, He’s Halston!’, The New York Times (7 May 2021): https://www.nytimes.com/2021/05/07/style/ewan-mcgregor-halston-netflix.html Molly O’Donnell, ‘Jessie Franklin Turner: American Fashion Designer (1881-1956)’, Maine Historical Society (3 December 2019): https://mainehistory.wordpress.com/2019/12/03/jessie-franklin-turner-american-fashion-designer/ Exhibition: ‘Halston and Warhol: Silver and Suede’, The Andy Warhol Museum, Pittsburgh (18 May – 24 August 2014): https://www.warhol.org/exhibition/halston-and-warhol-silver-and-suede/ and ... BBC World Service, People Fixing The World, The detection dogs tracking poachers and Covid-19 (27 April 2021): https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/p09fsrjh Walter Benjamin, ‘True Dog Stories’, Excerpt from Radio Benjamin (3 December 2014, first broadcast some time between 1927 and 1933): https://hazlitt.net/longreads/true-dog-stories

We discuss the problematics of Mahogany - the 1975 Diana Ross star vehicle that combines fashion, politics and melodrama. See links below. Berry Gordon (director), Diana Ross (costume design), Susan Gertsman (wardrobe coordinator: Ms Ross), Jay Hurley (costumer), Annalisa Nasalli-Rocca (wardrobe supervisor), Mahogany (1975): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0073335/ Richard Dyer, ‘Diana Ross’, Marxism Today (June 1982): http://banmarchive.org.uk/collections/mt/pdf/82_06_36a.pdf Success: Richard Dyer on Diana Ross [and Beyond] (1982/2016): https://vimeo.com/150268022 Oybò Untuned Socks: https://www.oybo.it/

We remember Alber Elbaz and his wonderful design sensibility and talk about the amazing jewels on view at Bonhams this week. See links below. Present & Correct: https://www.presentandcorrect.com/ AZ Factory Show Fashion by Alber Elbaz (26 January 2021): https://youtu.be/wssdl8xlZSk AZ Factory: https://www.azfactory.com/ Geoffrey Beene: A Duet of Fashion + Movement, Phoenix Art Museum (2021): http://www.arizonacostumeinstitute.org/geoffrey-beene-virtual-unveiling-fundraiser Loïc Prigent (director), The Day Before: Lanvin (2011): https://distribution.arte.tv/fiche/LANVIN__-_LE_JOUR_D_AVANT and https://youtu.be/FcYDtlQNtWc Bonhams Jewels: https://www.instagram.com/bonhamsjewels/ John Brogden at the V&A: https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/jewellery-designs#slideshow=93099346&slide=0 Fashion and Fancy Dress (The Messel Family Dress Collection at Brighton Museum): https://brightonmuseums.org.uk/discover/2015/02/26/fashion-and-fancy-dress-2/

We marvel at the amazing hairstyles, hats, handbags, and clothes (designed by Marcel Rochas) in Jacques Becker’s 1945 film Falbalas, set in a Paris couture house. See links below. Jacques Becker (director), Marcel Rochas (gowns), Falbalas (1945): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0035853/ Marcel Rochas: https://www.instagram.com/rochasofficial/ and https://rochas.com/en/in-the-eyes-of-marcel/ Violette Leduc, ‘Cette oeuvre d’art fugitive: Une Vitrine’, Pour Elle (1 January 1942): https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k4226919w/f9.item (about Annie Beaumel) Alexander Fury, ‘The Fascinating Woman behind Hermès’ Window Displays’, AnOther (9 November 2017): https://www.anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/10351/the-fascinating-woman-behind-hermes-window-displays (about Annie Beaumel’s ‘pupil’ Leïla Menchari) Recueil. “Falbalas” film de Jacques Becker (1945): https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b10516145p Marie Claire (15 March 1944): https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k4701341r/f1.image (cover with hat by Gabrielle) Josée de Luca (director), Alex et Marie (1993) – short film about the hairstylist Alex Archambault who also was behind Simone Signoret’s hairstyle in Jacques Beckers’ ‘Casque d’or’ (1952) Paul Thomas Anderson (director), Mark Bridges (costume design), Phantom Thread (2017): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt5776858/

We talk about two films featuring the mesmerising Anna May Wong: Piccadilly (1929) and Daughter of Shanghai (1937). See links below. Ewald André Dupont (director), Piccadilly (1929): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0020269/ Robert Florey (director), Daughter of Shanghai (1937): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0028770/ Costume worn by Anna Mae Wong in Daughter of Shanghai: https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5634636 Brian Taves, Daughter of Shanghai, Library of Congress (undated): https://www.loc.gov/static/programs/national-film-preservation-board/documents/daughter_shanghai.pdf Jean-François Staszak, ‘Performing race and gender: the exoticization of Josephine Baker and Anna May Wong, Gender, Place & Culture, Volume 22, No. 5 (2015): http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/0966369X.2014.885885 Thuy Linh Nguyen Tu, ‘Forgetting Anna May Wong’, Wasafiri, Volume 19, Issue 43 (2004): https://doi.org/10.1080/02690050408589931

We all need some light relief, so join us (again) to play ‘If I Was a Painting’. See links below. Jacques-Louis David, Madame Récamier, née Julie (known as Juliette) Bernard (1777-1849), known as Portrait of Juliette Récamier, Musée du Louvre, Paris (1800): https://www.louvre.fr/en/oeuvre-notices/madame-recamier François Gérard, Portrait de Juliette Récamier, Musée Carnavalet, Paris (c. 1805): http://www.carnavalet.paris.fr/fr/collections/portrait-de-juliette-recamier-1777-1849 Jan van Eyck, The Arnolfini Portrait, National Gallery, London (about 1434): https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/jan-van-eyck-the-arnolfini-portrait Hans Memling, The Donne Tryptich, National Gallery, London (about 1478): https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/hans-memling-the-donne-triptych Oorijzers – ‘Ear-irons’ – Part 1, Atelier Nostalgia (27 September 2016): https://ateliernostalgia.wordpress.com/2016/09/27/oorijzers-ear-irons-part-1/ John Singer Sargent, Mr. and Mrs. I. N. Phelps Stokes, Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York (1897): https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/38.104/ Wash Westmoreland (director), Andrea Flesch (costume designer), Colette (2018): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt5437928/ James Jacques Tissot, Frederick Burnaby, National Portrait Gallery, London (1870): https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw00932/Frederick-Burnaby François-Hubert Drouais, Madame de Pompadour at her Tambour Frame, National Portrait Gallery, London (1763-4): https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/francois-hubert-drouais-madame-de-pompadour-at-her-tambour-frame Otto Dix, Bildnis der Journalistin Sylvia von Harden, Centre Pompidou (1926): https://www.centrepompidou.fr/cpv/resource/cjyXKB7/rzEpd6 August Sander, Sekretärin beim Westdeutscher Rundfunk in Köln (1931): https://art.rmngp.fr/fr/library/artworks/august-sander_sekretarin-beim-westdeutscher-rundfunk-in-koln_epreuve-gelatino-argentique_1931

We talk about Alison Ellwood’s documentary about The Go-Go’s and the band members’ fabulous clothes, hair and make-up. See links below. Alison Ellwood (director), The Go-Go’s (2020): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt11394468/ The Go-Go’s (2020) Official Trailer, Showtime Documentary Film (1 July 2020): https://youtu.be/GsiRfL11I08 Variety, ‘The Go-Go’s dive into their history in new documentary at Sundance’ (28 January 2020): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cHS5gdKSUcY Keaton Bell, ‘How the Go-Go’s Found Their Beat: An Oral History’, Vogue (4 August 2020): https://www.vogue.com/article/go-gos-40th-anniversary-beauty-and-the-beat-oral-history-belinda-carlisle The Go-Go’s – We Got The Beat: https://youtu.be/f55KlPe81Yw The Go-Go’s – Vacation: https://youtu.be/2RHTiXvELNg The Go-Go’s – Turn To You: https://youtu.be/gc-WHZ0AH50 The Go-Go’s – Our Lips Are Sealed: https://youtu.be/r3kQlzOi27M Fun Boy Three, Our Lips Are Sealed (1983, uploaded 13 July 2017): https://youtu.be/QhVhK-VVeXo John Waters (director), Van Smith (costume design), Christine Mason (key hair stylist), Hairspray (1988): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0095270/ ‘Automatic Mascara’, cosmetics and skin: https://www.cosmeticsandskin.com/ded/automatic-mascara.php

We talk about Kent State University Museum’s inspiring exhibition ‘Stitched: Regional Dress Across Europe’. See links below. Kent State University Museum: https://www.instagram.com/ksumuseum/ Jean L. Druesedow: https://www.kent.edu/museum/profile/jean-l-druesedow Shannon Rodgers and Jerry Silverman papers, Kent State University Libraries: https://www.library.kent.edu/special-collections-and-archives/shannon-rodgers-and-jerry-silverman-papers ‘Stitched: Regional Dress Across Europe’, Kent State University Museum, Kent, Ohio (2 February – 19 December 2021): https://www.kent.edu/museum/event/stitched-regional-dress-across-europe KSU Museum, ‘Fashion Focus: Stitched Regional Dress across Europe’, YouTube (5 February 2021): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xwwT-abxCOQ Solveig Strand, ‘The Norwegian Bunad: Peasant Dress, Embroidered Costume and National Symbol’, The Journal of Dress History, Volume 2, Issue 3 (Autumn 2018): https://dresshistorians.org/wp/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/The-Journal-of-Dress-History-Volume-2-Issue-3-Autumn-2018.pdf

We talk about the challenges of packing museum objects and Poiret’s and Drecoll’s dresses for Jean Epstein’s 1925 film ‘Le Double Amour’. See links below. How to store a wedding dress, Museum of London (16 September 2013): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eHcQug5ZJd4 Jean Epstein (director); Drecoll, Paul Poiret (dresses for Nathalie Lissenko); Pierre Kéfer (décors, executed by Lazare Meerson), Le Double Amour (1925): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0237181/ Le Double Amour on the Cinémathèque française website: https://www.cinematheque.fr/henri/film/48362-le-double-amour-jean-epstein-1925/ Cycle Jean Epstein – Le Double Amour, DVD Classik (not dated): https://www.dvdclassik.com/critique/le-double-amour-epstein Bernard Boutet de Monvel, Stephen Ongpin Fine Art: https://www.stephenongpin.com/object/805553/0/bernard-boutet-de-monvel-paris-1884; also: https://www.instagram.com/boutet.de.monvel/ Birgit Haase and Adelheid Rasche, ‘Christoph Drecoll: Rediscovering the Viennese Worth’, Costume, Volume 53, Issue 2 (2019): https://www.euppublishing.com/doi/full/10.3366/cost.2019.0120 Textile design by Paul Poiret for Martine, Metropolitan Museum of Art (c. 1919): https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/487282 Printed cotton, designed by Francis Jourdain, made by Cornille (c. 1925), Lot 233, ‘Étoffes & Costumes Anciens – Papiers Peints’, Couteau-Bégarie & Associés, Paris, Auction (19 February 2021): https://www.coutaubegarie.com/lot/107236/14310881

We marvel at the costumes and puzzle over the plot line of Jean Epstein’s 1924 silent film ‘Le Lion des Mogols’. See links below. Nike GO FlyEase: https://news.nike.com/news/nike-go-flyease-hands-free-shoe Cornercopia Store: https://cornercopiastore.co.uk/ Jean Epstein (director), Boris Bilinsky (costume design), The Lion of the Moguls (1924): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0191246/ Le Lion de Mogols on the Cinémathèque française website: https://www.cinematheque.fr/henri/film/48393-le-lion-des-mogols-jean-epstein-1924/ François Albera, Albatros: Des Russes à Paris, 1919-1929 (Cinémathèque française 1995): http://www.cineressources.net/consultationPdf/web/o000/592.pdf Samantha Leroy, Jean Epstein / Fiction / France / 1924 – Autour de Film: https://www.cinematheque.fr/catalogues/restaurations-tirages/film.php?id=48393#autour-du-film Michael Organ and René Clémenti-Bilinsky (compiled by), ‘Boris Bilinsky French Metropolis Posters & Montages 1927’ (2016): https://documents.uow.edu.au/~morgan/metrojc.htm Adrian Curry, ‘Movie Posters of the Week: “Metropolis” and the posters of Boris Bilinsky’, Mubi, Notebook Column (31 August 2013): https://mubi.com/notebook/posts/movie-poster-of-the-week-metropolis-and-the-posters-of-boris-bilinsky Jean Baptiste Vanmour at Rijks Museum, Amsterdam: https://www.rijksmuseum.nl/en/rijksstudio/artists/jean-baptiste-vanmour Eugène Delacroix, Death of Sardanapalus (1827): https://www.louvre.fr/en/oeuvre-notices/death-sardanapalus Ivan Mosjoukine, National Portrait Gallery, London: https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/person/mp147007/ivan-mosjoukine Gert Stienissen, ‘The original Kuleshov experiment’ (2011): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5JTX2DD4qTQ

We discuss gender and race relations and the use of clothes in Ann Petry’s 1946 novel The Street. See links below. Ann Petry, The Street (Virago 2019, first published 1946): https://www.virago.co.uk/titles/ann-petry-5/the-street/9780349012926/ Ann Petry, The Narrows (Virago 2020, first published 1953): https://www.virago.co.uk/titles/ann-petry-5/the-narrows/9780349013398/ Biographical information for Ann Petry at New York Public Library: http://archives.nypl.org/scm/24832#overview Tayari Jones, ‘In praise of Ann Petry’, The New York Times (10 November 2018): https://www.nytimes.com/2018/11/10/books/review/in-praise-of-ann-petry.html Tayari Jones, ‘The Street: the 1940s African American thriller that became a huge bestseller’, The Guardian (14 December 2019): https://www.theguardian.com/books/2019/dec/14/the-street-the-1940s-african-american-thriller-that-became-a-huge-bestseller Heather J. Hicks, ‘Rethinking Realism in Ann Petry’s “The Street”, Melus. Vol. 27, No. 4 (Winter 2002): https://www.jstor.org/stable/3250621 Heather J. Hicks, "This Strange Communion": Surveillance and Spectatorship in Ann Petry's "The Street", African American Review, vol. 37, no. 1 (Spring 2003): https://www.jstor.org/stable/1512357 All-American news IV (1945), Library of Congress: https://www.loc.gov/item/2018600204/ One tenth of a nation. The Arts (1954), Library of Congress: https://www.loc.gov/item/2020600724/

Bande à part is three years old! We posted our very first episode in January 2018, listen again to celebrate our very first conversation. Hear us discuss Unzipped, Douglas Keeve’s 1995 documentary about the truly wonderful Isaac Mizrahi, and Beatrice’s foray into learning the art of visible mending. See links below. The Conversations with Jason Campbell & Henrietta Gallina: https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/the-conversations/id1328893989 Emily Spivack, Worn Stories: http://wornstories.com/ Heidi Julavits, Leanne Shapton, Sheila Heti, Women in Clothes (2014): www.penguin.co.uk/books/196157/women-in-clothes/9781846148354.html Visible Mending: https://humantextilewellness.wordpress.com/ http://celiapym.com/ https://tomofholland.com/ http://www.woolfiller.com/ http://www.addresspublications.com/mended-scars/ http://goldenjoinery.com/ Boro: The Fabric of Life: https://www.boisbuchet.org/exhibitions/boro-the-fabric-of-life/ Douglas Keeve (director), Unzipped (1995): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0114805/ and https://youtu.be/qNmJKsGylaY Robert J. Flaherty, Nanook of the North (1922): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0013427/ Ernst Lubitsch (director), I don’t want to be a man (1918): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0010281/ and https://youtu.be/bCmwaXkf8Xg Charles Bryant (director), Natacha Rambova (costume design), Salomé (1923): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0013571/ and https://youtu.be/Pt0DSbnf7q8 Jacques Becker (director), Marcel Rochas (costume design), Falbalas (1945): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0035853/

We unexpectedly become fascinated with clowns and their make-up, including Joseph Grimaldi. See links below. Leichner Kosmetik: https://www.cosmeticsandskin.com/companies/leichner.php Dave Fagundes and Aaron Perzanowski, The fascinating reason why clowns paint their faces on eggs, BBC Future (6 December 2017): https://www.bbc.com/future/article/20171206-the-fascinating-reason-why-clowns-paint-their-faces-on-eggs Costume worn by Joseph Grimaldi (1800-1823), Museum of London: https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/794735.html Carold Reed (director), Veniero Colasanti (costume design), Trapeze (1956): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0049875/ Mode Circus Knie, Textilmuseum St. Gallen (7 March 2019 – 19 January 2020): https://www.textilmuseum.ch/modecircus/ Jean-Antoine Watteau, ‘Pierrot, formerly known as Gilles’ (c. 1718-19), Musée du Louvre, Paris: https://www.louvre.fr/en/oeuvre-notices/pierrot-formerly-known-gilles Playbill for The Great United Circus Alhambra Palace (1858), Victoria & Albert Museum: http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1462318/the-great-united-states-circus-playbill-horner/ National Fairground and Circus Archive, The University of Sheffield: https://www.sheffield.ac.uk/nfca

We talk about Josephine Baker’s performance in the 1935 film ‘Princesse Tam-Tam’ and the Steve McQueen’s 2020 TV series ‘Small Axe’, particularly the wonderful ‘Lovers Rock’ episode. See links below. Alan Parker (director), Kristi Zea (costume design), Fame (1980): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0080716/ Christopher Gore (creator), Nanrose Buchman, Marilyn Matthews and Ellen Mirojnick (costume designers on different episodes), Fame (1982-1987): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0083412/ Well, fame costs ....: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tze87LfeOtY Edmond T. Gréville (director), Gaston, Philippe and Zanel (costume design), Princesse Tam-Tam (1935): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0026891/ Exploring Josephine Baker, Autograph (23 October 2020): https://autograph.org.uk/events/exploring-josephine-baker George Cukor (director), Cecil Beaton and Michael Neuwirth (costume design), My Fair Lady (1964): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0058385/ Steve McQueen (director), Lisa Duncan, Jacqueline Durran and Sinéad Kidao (costume design on different episodes), Small Axe (2020): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt3464896/ and https://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episodes/p08vxt33/small-axe Supertone Records: http://www.supertonerecords.co.uk/ Steve McQueen (director), Lisa Duncan and Jacqueline Durran (costume design), Lovers Rock (2020): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt10551102/ Laura U. Marks, The Skin of the Film: Intercultural Cinema, Embodiment, and the Senses (Duke University Press 2000): https://www.sfu.ca/~lmarks/skin/skin.html Lauren Cochrane, ‘Well put together’: the style legacy of lovers rock’, The Guardian online (20 November 2020): https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2020/nov/20/well-put-together-the-style-legacy-of-lovers-rock K. Austin Collins, ‘The Dance Floor Is Always at the Center of Steve McQueen’s “Lovers Rock”’, Rolling Stone (28 November 2020): https://www.rollingstone.com/movies/movie-reviews/lovers-rock-steve-mcqueen-small-axe-1090869/ Wales Bonner, Lovers Rock collection (AW20): https://walesbonner.net/blogs/lovers-rock-aw20 John Goto, Lovers’ Rock (1977): http://www.johngoto.org.uk/Lovers_Rock/index.htm#45

We discuss Julien Duvivier’s marvellous 1930 film ‘Au Bonheur des Dames’ based on Émile Zola’s eponymous novel. See links below. Julien Duvivier (director), Gerlaur / Marthe Pinchaud (costume design), Au Bonheur des Dames (1930): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0020656/ Au Bonheur des Dames on Accroche Note: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pA5EqTkz84I Émile Zola, Au Bonheur des Dames (The Ladies’ Delight) (first published 1883): https://www.penguin.co.uk/books/35360/au-bonheur-des-dames--the-ladies--delight-/9780140447835.html Georg Simmel, ‘The Metropolis and Mental Life’ (1903) in Gary Bridge and Sophie Watson, eds. The Blackwell City Reader. Oxford and Malden, MA: Wiley-Blackwell (2002): http://www.esperdy.net/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/Simmel_21.pdf Patricia O’Brien, ‘The Kleptomania Diagnosis: Bourgeois Women and Theft in Late Nineteenth-Century France’, Journal of Social History, Vol. 17, No. 1 (Autumn 1983): https://www.jstor.org/stable/pdf/3787239.pdf Elaine S. Abelson, ‘The Invention of Kleptomania’, Signs, Vol. 15, No. 1 (Autumn 1989): https://www.freud.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Abelson-The-Invention-of-Kleptomania.pdf

We discuss Gero von Boehm’s documentary ‘Helmut Newton: The Bad & the Beautiful’ (2020) and our own reactions to Newton’s controversial photographs. See links below. Gero von Boehm (director), Helmut Newton: The Bad and the Beautiful (2020): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt10370644/ Mila Ganeva, ‘Fashion Photography and Women’s Modernity in Weimar Germany: The Case of Yva’, NWSA Journal, Vol. 15, No. 3, Gender and Modernism between the Wars, 1918-1939 (Autumn 2003): https://www.jstor.org/stable/4317007?seq=1 Hannah Höch, Weltrevolution (1920), Metropolitan Museum of Art: https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/265169 Hans Bellmer at MoMA: https://www.moma.org/artists/452 Rebecca Arnold, ‘Fashion, Desire and Anxiety: Image and Morality in the Twentieth Century’, I.B. Tauris (2001): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/fashion-desire-and-anxiety-9780857718396/ Rebecca Arnold, ‘Fashion, Violence and Hyperreality’, in Glenn Adamson and Jane Pavitt (editors), Postmodernism: Style and Subversion, 1970-1990, V&A (2012): https://www.vam.ac.uk/shop/postmodernism-style-and-subversion-1970-90-hardback-110121.html ‘Helmut Newton: High Gloss’, Hamiltons, London (21 October 2020 - 8 January 2021): https://www.hamiltonsgallery.com/exhibitions/helmut-newton-high-gloss/overview/ Fashion Interpretations, A symposium: https://sites.courtauld.ac.uk/fashioninterpretations/events/

We talk about John Lewis Curthoys' 1941 film ‘Border Weave’, produced by the British Council about the production of woollen textiles in the Scottish Borders, but also about empire, national identity and tradition versus modernity. See links below. Merel on Etsy: https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/mereltreasures MoMu Antwerp: https://www.momu.be/en/ British Council Film Archive: https://film.britishcouncil.org/resources/film-archive John Lewis Curthoys (director), Border Weave (1941): https://film.britishcouncil.org/resources/film-archive/border-weave John Lewis Curthoys and George Wynn (directors), Their Great Adventure (1948): http://collections-search.bfi.org.uk/web/Details/ChoiceFilmWorks/150057853 George Wynn: https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0943964/ Jack Cardiff: https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0002153/bio Joseph Todd Gordon Macleod: https://www.poetryfoundation.org/poets/joseph-gordon-macleod London Cloth Company: http://www.londoncloth.com/ David Parkinson, ‘Where to begin with Humphrey Jennings’, BFI (19 August 2019): https://www2.bfi.org.uk/news-opinion/news-bfi/features/where-begin-humphrey-jennings

We talk about the fascinating exhibition ‘Michael Clark: Cosmic Dancer’ at the Barbican Art Gallery, London. See links below. Michael Clark: Cosmic Dancer, Barbican Art Gallery, London (7 October 2020-3 January 2021): https://www.barbican.org.uk/whats-on/2020/event/michael-clark-cosmic-dancer Sarah Crompton, Cosmic Dancer (2020): https://sites.barbican.org.uk/introducingmichaelclark/ Charles Atlas (director), Hail the New Puritan (1986): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0410057/ and http://www.eai.org/titles/hail-the-new-puritan Isabella Burley, Cult VIP: Rachel Auburn, Dazed Digital (5 February 2013): https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/15548/1/cult-vip-rachel-auburn Leigh Bowery on The Clothes Show (1988): https://youtu.be/om0MrCOXPcE Al Mulhall, Fashion Archive: Bodymap, Dazed (16 December 2009): https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/6120/1/fashion-archive-bodymap Kar-Wai Wong (director), William Chang (costume design), In the Mood for Love (2020): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0118694/ Noël Coward: Art & Style, Guildhall Art Gallery (2020-2021): https://www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/things-to-do/attractions-museums-entertainment/guildhall-galleries/guildhall-art-gallery/noel-coward Adam & The Ants, Prince Charming (1981): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9p__WmyAE3g Diaghilev and the Golden Age of the Ballets Russes, Victoria & Albert Museum, London (25 September 2010 – 9 January 2011): https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/diaghilev-and-the-ballets-russes Designing Dreams: A Celebration of Leon Bakst, Villa Sauber, Monaco (23 October 2016 – 15 January 2017): https://tinyurl.com/hudos65

We talk about a conversation organised by Autograph and bimi, the Birkbeck Institute for the Moving Image, between Karen Alexander and Terri Simone Francis about her forthcoming book on Josephine Baker. See links below. Maurice Merleau-Ponty, Phenomenology of Perception (Routledge , first published 1945): https://www.routledge.com/Phenomenology-of-Perception/Merleau-Ponty/p/book/9780415834339 bimi, Birkbeck Institute for the Moving Image blog: http://blogs.bbk.ac.uk/bimi/about/ Autograph: Exploring Josephine Baker (23 October 2020): https://autograph.org.uk/events/exploring-josephine-baker Terri Simone Francis, Josephine Baker's Cinematic Prism (Indiana University Press 2021): https://iupress.org/9780253052179/josephine-bakers-cinematic-prism/ Joséphine Baker, Le sel de la semaine (18 mars 1968): https://ici.radio-canada.ca/info/videos/media-8114314/josephine-baker-au-sel-semaine Jack Mangan interviews Josephine Baker aboard the SS Liberté (3 October 1950): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zKO1YLXqxTU Josephine Baker, Rehearsal for a performance at Olympia, Paris (1964): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rdQ8p9U3Iw0

We discuss Pan & the Dream magazine’s new ghostly issue and wonder about the significance of hands in understanding portraits. See links below. Dub London: Bassline of a City, Museum of London (to 31 January 2020): https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/museum-london/whats-on/exhibitions/dub-london Jilke Golbach, Dub Reggae Icons of London, Museum of London (29 July 2020): https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/discover/dub-reggae-icons-london Pan & the Dream: https://www.panandthedream.com/ Rebecca Arnold, ‘Drapery, Fashion, Ghosts’ and ‘Jake Wood-Evans: Between Two Worlds’, Pan &the Dream, Issue 4: Pan’s ghost Stories (2020): https://www.panandthedream.com/products/pans-ghost-stories-issue-4 M.R. James, ‘”Oh, Whistle, and I'll Come to You, My Lad”’, Ghost Stories of an Antiquary (1904): https://gutenberg.ca/ebooks/jamesmr-ohwhistle/jamesmr-ohwhistle-00-h.html Jake Wood-Evans: https://www.jakewoodevans.com/ Deborah Turbeville: https://www.instagram.com/deborah_turbeville/ Benoit Delhomme: https://www.instagram.com/benoitdelhomme Wolfgang Tillmans, Faltenwurf (Cubitt Edition) (2000): https://www.tate.org.uk/art/artworks/tillmans-faltenwurf-cubitt-edition-p78405 Robert Howlett, Isambard Kingdom Brunel, National Portrait Galler (1857): https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw00867/Isambard-Kingdom-Brunel London Stereoscopic Company, Peter Jackson (1889): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peter_Jackson_(boxer)#/media/File:Peter_Jackson_boxer_1889.jpg Germaine Krull, Jean Cocteau, Museum of Modern Art (1929): https://www.moma.org/collection/works/51344 Neil Kenlock, Olive Morris, National Portrait Gallery (1973): https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw272120/Olive-Morris Fur coat, Museum of London (c. 1945): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/82495.html James van der Zee, Lady with fur jacket, Howard Greenberg Gallery (1935): http://www.howardgreenberg.com/artists/james-van-der-zee

We discuss the V&A’s ‘Kimono: From Kyoto to Catwalk’ exhibition and the varied meanings of this fascinating garment. See links below. Collina Strada: https://collinastrada.com/ Ian Kelly, Beau Brummell: The Ultimate Man of Style (2006): https://www.hodder.co.uk/titles/ian-kelly/beau-brummell/9780340836996/ Duro Olowu: https://www.duroolowu.com/ Arles – Les Rencontres de la Photographie: https://www.rencontres-arles.com/en Julien Faure: https://www.instagram.com/julienfaure1864/ Les choses de Paul Poiret / vues par Georges Lepape (1911): https://www.vmfa.museum/piction/108734640-160584885/ Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk, Victoria & Albert Museum (to 25 October 2020): https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/kimono-kyoto-to-catwalk Storey Studio (exhibition designers): https://www.storeystudio.com/project/va/kimono-kyoto-catwalk-exhibition Curator Tour led by Anna Jackson, Keeper of the Asian Department: https://youtu.be/oEf0iFNTVGw https://youtu.be/hG6UVZexmc8 https://youtu.be/dvyC_pqYhvw https://youtu.be/oz1AzscxHjk https://youtu.be/OSgNdkcg9To Netsuke & Inro, V&A: http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/n/netsuke-inro/ Sheila Cliffe, The Social Life of Kimono: Japanese Fashion Past and Present (Bloomsbury 2020): https://www.bloomsbury.com/us/the-social-life-of-kimono-9781350211186/ Jennifer Craik, The Face of Fashion (Routledge 2003): https://www.taylorfrancis.com/books/9780203409428 Kimonos in the Khalili Collections: https://www.khalilicollections.org/all-collections/japanese-kimono/ Kitsuke: How to wear kimono (August 2017): https://youtu.be/gVdwYM75oLI Wasoukan, How to wear a kimono (September 2020): https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLZyw9a9Ouji03DOIT2SlTUyrDJbKP7hBL Ome Kimono Museum, Tokyo: http://www.omekimono.jp/

We discuss the Wide Awakes - their origins as an Abolitionist movement supporting Lincoln’s 1860 election campaign, and their revival in 2020 as a cape-clad artist network that believes in “joy as resistance “. See links below. Ruth Barnes, Joanne B. Eicher, Dress and Gender: Making and Meaning (first published in 1992): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/dress-and-gender-9780854968657/ Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk, V&A, London (to 25 October 2020): https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/kimono-kyoto-to-catwalk Jessica Mitford, Hons and Rebels (first published in 1960): https://www.weidenfeldandnicolson.co.uk/titles/jessica-mitford/hons-and-rebels/9781474605373/ Nancy Mitford, Love in a Cold Climate (first published in 1949): https://www.penguin.co.uk/books/282/2828/love-in-a-cold-climate/9780241974698.html Gerda Taro: https://www.icp.org/browse/archive/objects/militiawoman-training-on-the-beach-near-barcelona and https://www.icp.org/browse/archive/constituents/gerda-taro?all/all/all/all/0 Jon Grinspan, ‘”Young Men for War”: The Wide Awakes and Lincoln’s 1860 Presidential Campaign’, Journal of American History, 96 (Sept. 2009): http://archive.oah.org/special-issues/lincoln/contents/grinspan.html ‘Connecticut Wide-Awakes’, Connecticut Historical Society (6 January 2011): https://chs.org/2011/01/connecticut-wide-awakes/ 2020 Wideawakes: https://wideawakes.com/ and https://www.instagram.com/wideawakes/ and https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/wide-awakes/the-wide-awakes For Freedoms: https://forfreedoms.org/ Hank Willis Thomas: https://www.instagram.com/hankwillisthomas/ and https://www.hankwillisthomas.com/ Wildcat Ebony Brown: https://www.instagram.com/wildcatebonybrown/ Anya Ayoung Chee: https://www.anyaayoungchee.com/ and https://www.togetherwi.org/ Eric Gottesman: https://ericgottesman.net/ Coby Kennedy: https://www.cobykennedystudio.com/ Kambui Olujimi: https://kambuiolujimi.com/ Jose Parla: https://www.instagram.com/joseparla/ Matt Dellinger, ‘A Civil War Political Movement Reawakens — Complete With Capes’, New York Times (15 September 2020): https://www.nytimes.com/2020/09/15/style/wide-awakes-civil-war-activists.html Rebecca Jamieson, ‘Without Joy, Nothing is Sustainable: The Artist First-Responders Waking Up Democracy with Play, Billboards, and Capes’, Pioneer Works (10 February 2020): https://pioneerworks.org/broadcast/for-freedoms-jamieson/ Jammal Lemy, ‘Wide Awakes’, Dazed (15 September 2020): https://www.dazeddigital.com/read-up-act-up-autumn-2020/article/50410/1/read-up-act-up-autumn-2020-wide-awakes-guest-edit Rujeko Hockley, ‘Joy as Resistance: Artist collective the Wide Awakes takes NYC this weekend. Why we’re marching’, New York Vulture (2 October 2020): https://www.vulture.com/2020/10/wide-awakes-march-nyc.html Brooke Bobb, ‘The Wide Awakes Are the Civil War–Era Activist Group Making a Comeback in Bold, Joyful Style’, Vogue (2 October 2020): https://www.vogue.com/article/wide-awakes-capes

We discuss Rihanna’s approach to lingerie and the amazing choreography and body positivity on display at the Savage x Fenty vol. 2 show. See links below. Gucci’s Rock Star Live campaign: https://www.gucci.com/uk/en_gb/st/stories/advertising-campaign/article/fall-winter-2020-gucci-tailoring-shoppable Biggy Pop: https://www.instagram.com/biggypop/ Britta Lokting, ‘The Pied Piper of Parrots’, New York Times (17 January 2018): https://www.nytimes.com/2018/01/17/nyregion/pet-parrot-trainer.html Savage X Fenty Show: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Savage-X-Fenty-Show/dp/B07XFK153C https://www.instagram.com/savagexfenty/ Tom Huddleston, ‘Where to begin with Busby Berkeley’, BFI (28 October 2019): https://www2.bfi.org.uk/news-opinion/news-bfi/features/where-begin-busby-berkeley

We talk about the preview event of the online conference Fashion at the Periphery organised by the Chicago Fashion Lyceum where Paul & Kayla Owen and Amanda Harth talked about streetwear in Liverpool and Chicago, respectively. See links below. Otto Preminger (director), Hope Bryce and May Walding (costume), Bonjour Tristesse (1958): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0051429/ Chicago Fashion Lyceum: https://chicagofashionlyceum.com/ Fashion at the Periphery 2020: https://chicagofashionlyceum.com/schedule/ Paul & Kayla Owen: owenstudio.co.uk Sole Magazine: https://www.instagram.com/sole_magazine/ Laura Davis, ‘Adidas unveils Kirkdale trainers at Laces Out! festival’, Liverpool Echo (11 September 2015): https://www.liverpoolecho.co.uk/whats-on/whats-on-news/adidas-unveils-kirkdale-trainers-laces-10034994 Runwayaddicts: https://www.runwayaddicts.co/ Matt Harvey, ‘The Museum of Streetwear enshrines young Chicago designers (for a weekend)’, Chicago Reader (24 July 2019): https://www.chicagoreader.com/chicago/museum-of-streetwear-runwayaddicts/Content?oid=71911322 Ron Louis: https://www.instagram.com/ron_louis/ and ‘Ron Louis on His Custom Glacier Force 1 High’s, Virgil Abloh and Ending the Phera Brand’, iLLANOiZe (24 May 2020): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CkzlZjDKsLg Justin Mensinger: https://justinmensinger.com/ PerryCo. Shoes by Brittney Perry: https://perrycoshoes.com/

We talk about two pioneering women: the first female filmmaker Alice Guy-Blaché and the writer, broadcaster, collector, costume designer, dress historian and curator Doris Langley Moore. See links below. Pamela B. Green (director), Be Natural: The Untold Story of Alice Guy-Blaché (2018): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt3146022/ Marquise Lepage (director), Le Jardin oublié: La vie et l’oeuvre d’Alice Guy Blaché (1996): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0113692/ and https://youtu.be/zli0mysaUeU René Boca, ‘Nouvelles Brèves de la Cité: Alice Guy-Blaché, la 1re femme metteur en scene’, La Cité (Paris 1954): https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k9783739x/f25.image Men, Women and Clothes (1957): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1375606/ and https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b00gp19b (sadly currently not available on this platform) Men, Women and Clothes (1957) on YouTube: https://youtu.be/6NA_opCjczE - How Fashions Come and Go https://youtu.be/_n-BgDm55Uk – Sense and Nonsense in Fashion https://youtu.be/qbG33X2j1L0 - Fashions in Faces and Figures https://youtu.be/UGBsmyfSAjw - Formal Clothes https://youtu.be/Hz-BXo7OjKY - Informal Clothes https://youtu.be/j_ti9kDpzjo - Facing the Elements Doris Langley Moore, ‘The Beginning of the Collection’, Costume, no. 4, supplement 1 (April 1970): https://doi.org/10.1179/cos.1970.4.Supplement-1.2 Penelope Byrde, ‘Doris Langley Moore, 1902-1989’, Costume no. 24 (1990): https://doi.org/10.1179/cos.1990.24.1.149 Thorstein Veblen, The Theory of the Leisure Class: An Economic Study of Institutions (1899) John Huston (director), Doris Langley Moore (costume design), The African Queen (1951): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0043265/ Roger White, ‘Stella Mary Newton’, The Guardian (26 May 2001): https://www.theguardian.com/news/2001/may/26/guardianobituaries.books

Sparked off by a 1975 book about the dress collection then at Castle Howard, we talk about dressing up in historic clothes and the difficulties with trying to recreate the past. See links below. Present & Correct, Desk trolley: https://www.presentandcorrect.com/products/oak-desk-trolley Naruhito (photographer), Costume at Castle Howard (Castle Howard Estate, 1975): https://www.worldcat.org/title/costume-at-castle-howard/oclc/2543171/editions Castle Howard, Sale, Sotheby’s (7 October 2003): https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2003/castle-howard-w03843/lot.1.html The Gallery of English Costume: Picture Books (1949-1977): https://tinyurl.com/yxd85mqu Cecil Smith, Guide to the English Costumes Presented by Messrs. Harrods Ltd (V&A 1913): https://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=uc1.b000993584&view=1up&seq=7 Christina Broom, The Historical Pageant of the Women's Coronation Procession (17 June 1911): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/437264.html, also: https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/437263.html https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/455275.html Beatrice Behlen, A fashion for women’s suffrage, Museum of London – Discover (27 April 2016): https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/discover/fashion-womens-suffrage

We talk about transitioning into autumn - which inspired some exciting new purchases - as well as the Netflix series Greenleaf, particularly Lady May’s wardrobe, and the HBO series Lovecraft Country and its visual references. See links below. Colourful Standard: https://colorfulstandard.co.uk/ AS Colour (the shop in Redchurch Street): https://ascolour.co.uk/ Craig Wright (creator), Johnetta Boone (costume design), Greenleaf (2016-20): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt4971144/ Michael Patrick Jann (director), Mimi Melgaard (costume design), Drop Dead Gorgeous (1999): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0157503/ Matt Ruff, Lovecraft Country (HarperCollins 2016): http://www.bymattruff.com/lovecraft-country/ Misha Green (creator), Dayna Pink (costume design), Lovecraft Country (2020): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt6905686/ Libby Torres, ‘Lovecraft Country' is packed with historical references and hidden clues. Here's a guide to the ones you may have missed., Insider (1 September 2020): https://www.insider.com/lovecraft-country-historical-references-details-you-missed-2020-8 Erica Gonzales, Lovecraft Country’s Leti Uses Clothing as “an Armour”, Harper’s Bazaar (24 August 2020): https://www.harpersbazaar.com/culture/film-tv/a33729791/lovecraft-country-costumes/ Gordon Parks, Segregation in the South (1956): http://www.gordonparksfoundation.org/gordon-parks/photography-archive/segregation-in-the-south-1956 Margaret Bourke-White, The Louisville Flood (1937), Whitney Museum of American Art: https://whitney.org/collection/works/8061 Amy Sherman-Palladino (creator), Donna Zakowska (costume design), The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel (2017- ): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt5788792/ Peter Farrelly (director), Betsy Heimann (costume design), Green Book (2018): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt6966692/

We talk about two films from the early 1930s: Bu Wancang’s Love & Duty and Oscar Micheaux’s Veiled Aristocrats. See links below. Yumo Archive: https://www.instagram.com/yumo.archive/ Bu Wancang (director), Love and Duty (1931): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0192239/ Love & Duty (1931) on bilibili: https://www.bilibili.com/video/BV1aE411V7Bh/?spm_id_from=333.788.videocard.0 Stephanie Horose (Hua Luochen), La symphonie des ombres chinoises (Paris: Editions Madeleine 1932) Irene Eber and Joan Hill, ‘Luo Chen (1883-1970), a Jewish Author in China’, Nashim: A Journal of Jewish Women’s Studies & Gender Issues, No. 31, (Spring-Fall 2017): https://www.jstor.org/stable/10.2979/nashim.31.1.08 Patrick Galvan, Ruan Lingyu: Her Life and Career (documentary) (16 October 2019): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_cDg7wjsas Richard Meyer, Jin Yan: The Rudolph Valentino of Shanghai (Hong Kong University Press 2009): https://hkupress.hku.hk/pro/318.php Sam Juliano, ‘Cinema as Archaeology – Bu Wancang’s masterpiece Love and Duty (1931)’, Wonders in the Dark (27 May 2011): https://wondersinthedark.wordpress.com/2011/05/27/cinema-as-archaeology-bu-wancangs-masterpiece-love-and-duty-1931/ Anne Kerlan, ‘Love and Duty (Lian’ai yu yiwu) (1931)’, in Steve Neale, Silent Features: The Development of Silent Feature Films 1914-1934 (University of Exeter Press 2018) Richard Haines: https://www.instagram.com/richard_haines/ Oscar Micheaux (director), Veiled Aristocrats (1932): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0023655/ Trailer for Veiled Aristocrats on The Criterion Channel: https://www.criterionchannel.com/veiled-aristocrats/videos/veiled-aristocrats-trailer Charles W. Chesnutt, The House Behind the Cedars (The University of Georgia Press 2000, first published 1900): https://ugapress.org/book/9780820321943/the-house-behind-the-cedars/ Charles Musser, The Films of Oscar Micheaux, The Criterion Channel (2016): https://www.criterionchannel.com/videos/the-films-of-oscar-micheaux Monica Drake, ‘Oscar Micheaux’, The New York Times (not dated): https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2019/obituaries/oscar-micheaux-overlooked.html Oscar Micheaux (1884-1951): Micheaux Film Corporation, Norman Studios Online Museum: http://normanstudios.org/nsdrc/displays/oscar-micheaux/ Douglas Sirk (director), Imitation of Life (1959): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0052918/ Nella Larsen, Passing (2003, first published 1929): https://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/books/286575/passing-by-nella-larsen/

We talk about the fabulous catalogue and wonderful website accompanying the ‘Willi Smith: Street Couture’ exhibition at the Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum in New York. See links below. Lou Stoppard, ‘The Phantom Handbag’, New York Times (16 July 2020): https://www.nytimes.com/2020/07/15/style/coronavirus-handbags.html Dior Autumn-Winter 2020-2021 Haute Couture: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yxBFwqRbI8c Simone Vertua, ‘Show-in-a-box: Loewe celebrates the creative process’, L’Officiel (13 July 2020): https://www.lofficiel.co.uk/fashion-week/show-in-a-box-loewe Brit Bennett, The Vanishing Half (Hachette 2020): https://www.hachette.co.uk/titles/brit-bennett/the-vanishing-half/9780349701448/ Lila Shapiro, ‘If You Can Perform Whiteness, Then What Does It Mean to Be White?’, Vulture (12 June 2020): https://www.vulture.com/2020/06/brit-bennett-the-vanishing-half-interview.html Helen Rappaport, Four Sisters: The Lost Lives of the Romanov Grand Duchesses (Pan 2015): https://helenrappaport.com/russia/four-sisters/ Willi Smith: Street Couture, Cooper Hewitt, New York (2020): https://www.cooperhewitt.org/channel/willi-smith-street-couture/ Willi Smith Community Archive: https://willismitharchive.cargo.site/ Alexandra Cunningham Cameron (editor), Willi Smith: Street Couture (Rizzoli Electa 2020): https://www.rizzoliusa.com/book/9780847868193/ Stephen Burrows: https://stephenburrows.com/ Scott Barrie: https://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2020/06/scott-barrie.html Arthur McGee: https://www.nytimes.com/2019/07/29/fashion/arthur-mcgee-dead.html Robin Givhan, ‘Patrick Kelly’s Radical Cheek’, Washington Post (31 May 2004): https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/2004/05/31/patrick-kellys-radical-cheek/7f404cd3-6f4d-4f28-8a24-6a0b398dba45/ Fréderic Tcheng (director), Halston (2019): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt9358192/

We talk about Leigh Wannell’s film The Invisible Man and its possible parallels to what is happening in the world right now. See links below. Leigh Wannell (director), Adam Johansen, Damien Martin, Emily Seresin (costume design), The Invisible Man (2020): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1051906/ and https://www.universalpictures.com/movies/the-invisible-man Michael Powell director), Polly Peck (dresses), Dickie Richardson (wardrobe), John Tullis of Horrockses (dress), Peeping Tom (1960): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0054167/ Alfred Hitchcock (director), Blackmail (1929): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0019702/ Alfred Hitchcock (director), Harry Kress (wardrobe), North by Northwest (1959): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0053125/ Ralph Ellison, The Invisible Man (first published in 1952): https://www.penguin.co.uk/articles/2016/invisible-man-by-ralph-ellison/ Gordon Parks, Invisible Man (1952): http://www.gordonparksfoundation.org/gordon-parks/photography-archive/invisible-man-1952/artworks?view=slider

We reflect on Rebecca’s MA Documenting Fashion students’ brilliant work this year and discuss the exciting virtual exhibitions ‘Jalebi’ by Ahluwalia and Laurence Ellis, and ‘"My Heart will always be in Brixton": Olive Morris’ by Linett Kamala with the Black Cultural Archives on Google Arts and Culture. See links below. Courtauld Institute of Art, MA History of Art Special Option: Documenting Fashion: Modernity, Films and Image in America and Europe, 1920-1960: https://courtauld.ac.uk/study/postgraduate/ma-history-art/documenting-fashion http://blog.courtauld.ac.uk/documentingfashion/ V&A, London, fashion exhibitions: https://artsandculture.google.com/exhibit/exhibiting-fashion-victoria-and-albert-museum/5wKyuCOYoCgBIA?hl=en Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, fashion publications: https://tinyurl.com/tca9for Kwame Brathwaite: https://www.kwamebrathwaite.com/ Tanisha C. Ford: http://www.tanishacford.com/ The Grandassa Models: https://www.instagram.com/thegrandassamodels/ Ahluwalia: https://www.ahluwaliastudio.com/ Jalebi, photographed by Laurence Ellis: https://www.ahluwaliastudio.com/jalebi-shop/jalebi Laurence Ellis: https://www.laurenceellis.com/ ‘My heart will always be in Brixton’: Olive Morris - An exhibition of artwork by Linett Kamala inspired by the activism of Olive Morris, Google Arts & Culture (2020): https://artsandculture.google.com/story/XwWReH6wADe8xA Linett Kamala: https://linettkamala.com/ Black Cultural Archives: https://blackculturalarchives.org/

Armando Iannucci (director), Suzie Harman, Robert Worley (costume designers), The Personal History of David Copperfield (2019): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt6439020/ George Cukor (director), Dolly Tree (costume & wardrobe), David Copperfield (1935): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0026266/ Leigh Singer, ‘“The story is the least interesting part”: Armando Iannucci on adapting David Copperfield’, Sight & Sound magazine (21 January 2020): https://www.bfi.org.uk/news-opinion/sight-sound-magazine/interviews/armando-iannucci-personal-history-david-copperfield-casting-modern-dickens-adaptation Melissa Bennett & Iyamide Thomas, ‘Meet the Krios of Sierra Leone’, Museum of London Discover (26 September 2019): https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/discover/meet-krios-sierra-leone-docklands London’s Fashion Alphabet – K for Krio, Museum of London (2019): https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/museum-london/londons-fashion-alphabet/londons-fashion-alphabet-k Beatrice Behlen and Christine Supianek, ‘Peopling the Pleasure Garden: Creating an Immersive Display at the Museum of London’, in Mary M. Brooks and Dinah D. Eastop (editors), Refashioning and Redress: Conserving and Displaying Dress (The Getty Conservation Institute, 2017): https://www.getty.edu/conservation/publications_resources/books/refashioning_redress.html Alison Toplis, ‘Smock Frocks: The Journey from Fieldwork to the Pages of Vogue’, Textile History, Volume 49, Issue 1 (2018): https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2018.1436245 Smock Shock: Deception and Disguise, Smock Frock Histories: www.smockfrock.co.uk

Rebecca is telling Beatrice about an online event she attended: a conversation with photographer and historian Jamel Shabazz, organised by Nights Global:. See links below. Nights Global: https://nightsglobal.com/ and @nightsglobal Bisoye Babalola: @bisoyebabalola Jamel Shabazz: http://jamelshabazz.com/index.html and @jamelshabazz Panel Members: @dupremethegod (@blackcotten_), @youngparis, Lamel Logan, Pamela Badila and Joe Cooper Jamel Shabazz, Ernie Paniccioli, Back in the Days: Photographs by Jame Shabazz (first published 2001): http://www.powerhousebooks.com/books/back-in-the-days/ Jamel Shabazz, A Time before Crack (first published 2005): https://www.powerhousebooks.com/books/a-time-before-crack-limited-edition/ Daryoush Haj-Najafi, ‘Jamel Shabazz: A Time Before Crack, Vice (27 May 2011): https://www.vice.com/en_uk/article/qba9xm/jamel-shabazz-a-time-before-crack The Badila Family: https://www.facebook.com/TheBadilaFamily/ Derwent Pencil Museum, Keswick, Cumbria: https://www.derwentart.com/en-gb/c/about/company/derwent-pencil-museum

We talk about two documentaries about the Black Panther Party shot in 1968 by Agnès Varda: Black Panthers and Huey. See links below. Agnès Varda (director), Black Panthers (1968): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0209942/ Currently (June 2020) available to watch here: https://www.troiscouleurs.fr/le-festival-a-la-maison/court-metrage-black-panthers-dagnes-varda-a-voir-sur-mk2-curiosity/ Agnès Varda (director), Huey (1968): https://www.facebook.com/political.film/videos/1617020975008840/ Agnès Varda Q&A, Black Panthers and Other Short Works, Film at Lincoln Centre (12 May 2015): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eo81Grb8A9Y Delphine Letort, ‘Agnès Varda: filming the Black Panthers struggle’, ORDA (L'Ordinaire des Amériques) 217 (2014): https://journals.openedition.org/orda/1646 and https://doi.org/10.4000/orda.1646 Janelle Harris, ‘The Rank and File Women of the Black Panther Party and Their Powerful Influence’, Smithsonian Magazine (4 March 2019): https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smithsonian-institution/rank-and-file-women-black-panther-party-their-powerful-influence-180971591/ Angela Y. Davis, ‘Afro Images: Politics, Fashion, and Nostalgia’, Critical Inquiry, Vol. 21, No. 1 (Autumn, 1994): https://www.jstor.org/stable/1343885 Black is Beautiful 1962, The Grandassa Models: https://www.instagram.com/thegrandassamodels/ Curtis Austin, Black Panthers White Lies, TEDxOhioStateUniversity (6 April 2016): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KPN8LHVeFYA Willi Smith: Street Couture, Cooper Hewitt, New York (2020): https://www.cooperhewitt.org/willi-smith-street-couture/

We talk about Virigina Woolf’s 1924 short story ‘The New Dress’ and Lisa Cohen’s article about Woolf’s “frock consciousness”. See links below. https://www.instagram.com/roisinmurphyofficial/ https://bonhomme.fr/# The New Dress, Excerpt from Viriginia Woolf’s 1927 [sic] short story, by Vestoj Editors: http://vestoj.com/the-new-dress/ The New Dress read by Carolyn Pickles, BBC (21 June 2019): https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p07d4lyy Lisa Cohen, ‘”Frock Consciousness”: Virginia Woolf, the open secret, and the Language of Fashion’, Fashion Theory, Volume 3, Issue 2 (1999): https://doi.org/10.2752/136270499779155032 Georg Simmel, ‘Fashion’, American Journal of Sociology, Volume 62, No. 6 (May 1957): https://www.jstor.org/stable/2773129 Lisa Cohen, All We Know: Three Lives (2012): https://wesscholar.wesleyan.edu/englbooks/58/ R.S. Koppen, Virginia Woolf: Fashion & Literary Modernity, Edinburgh University Press (2009): https://edinburghuniversitypress.com/book-virginia-woolf-fashion-and-literary-modernity.html Thomas Carlyle, Sartor Resartus (1831): https://www.gutenberg.org/files/1051/1051-h/1051-h.htm

We talk about the amazing colours, the light, clothes and make-up in Powell and Pressburger’s 1948 film The Red Shoes. See links below. Michael Powell and Emeric Pressburger (directors), Hein Heckroth (costume design), The Red Shoes (1948): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0040725/ Wardrobe and dresses of Ludmilla Tchérina: Dorothy Edwards Additional dresses for Ludmilla Tchérina: Carven Dresses for Moira Shearer: Jacques Fath and Mattli Make-up artists: George Blackler, Eric Carter, Ernest Gasser Michael Powell, A Life in Movies: An Autobiography (1986): http://www.powell-pressburger.org/Reviews/Micky/ALIM.html Hein Heckroth: Film Designer, Deutsches Film Institut, Filmmuseum, Berlin (28 March – 25 August 1991): https://www.dff.film/ausstellung/hein-heckroth-film-designer/ and http://www.shop-filmmuseum.de/Katalog-Hein-Heckroth-Film-Designer Villa Léopolda: https://www.pop.culture.gouv.fr/notice/memoire/APGLT03800 Matthew Bourne, The Red Shoes: https://new-adventures.net/the-red-shoes#overview Douglas Keeve (director), Unzipped (1995): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0114805/

We talk about the books we have been reading (good and bad) and Fashion Interpretations, the AHRC-funded networking project Rebecca runs with Judith Clark, which focuses ‘on the ways modern and contemporary fashion is continually reinterpreted through varied mediums’. See links below. Present & Correct: https://www.presentandcorrect.com/ Michael Arlen, The Green Hat (1924): https://www.capuchin-classics.co.uk/capuchin/site/product_rpt.asp?Catid=235 Michael Arlen, May Fair (1925) Hallie Rubenhold, The Five: The Untold Lives of the Women Killed by Jack the Ripper (2019): https://www.hallierubenhold.com/books/the-five/ Fashion Interpretations website: https://sites.courtauld.ac.uk/fashioninterpretations/ Fashion Interpretations Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/fashioninterpretations/

We discuss the list Love Magazine asked Rebecca to make of 10 lesser known designers who have helped to shape fashion. See links below. Rebecca Arnold, '10 Lesser-Known Fashion Designers Who Have Shaped The Industry', Love (5 May 2020): https://www.thelovemagazine.co.uk/article/10-lesser-known-fashion-designers-who-have-shaped-the-industry Callot Soeurs: Jessamyn Hatcher and Pari Dukovic, 'Twenty-One Dresses', The New Yorker (23 March 2015): https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2015/03/23/twenty-one-dresses Lucile: https://www.vogue.com/article/a-scandal-survives-the-story-of-fashion-designer-and-titanic-passenger-lucile Madeleine Vionnet: https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1936-vionnet-carnival-dress/ Claire McCardell: http://fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu/view/people/asitem/items$0040:6603/0 Geoffrey Beene: https://www.si.edu/object/nmah_360606 Ossie Clark: Osman Ahmed, 'The Fabulous Femininity of Ossie Clark', AnOther (25 August 2016): https://www.anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/8992/the-fabulous-femininity-of-ossie-clark Stephen Sprouse: https://www.thestephensprousebook.com/ Claude Montana: https://www.vanityfair.com/style/2013/09/claude-montana-king-paris-couture Romeo Gigli: https://www.encyclopedia.com/people/literature-and-arts/fashion-biographies/romeo-gigli Miguel Adrover: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/designer/miguel-adrover Willi Smith: Jenny Comita, 'How will designer Willi Smith be remembered?', W Magazine (28 January 2020): https://www.wmagazine.com/story/willi-smith-street-couture-alexandra-cunningham-cameron/ Sterling Ruby: Luke Leitch, 'Artist Sterling Ruby Turns Fashion Designer, Launches S.R. Studio. LA. CA. at Pitti Uomo', Vogue (14 June 2019): https://www.vogue.com/article/artist-sterling-ruby-turns-fashion-designer-launches-sr-studio-la-ca-at-pitti-uomo

We talk about the thoughtful documentary about Martin Margiela and our admiration for his wonderful work. See links below. Reiner Holzemer (director), Martin Margiela: In His Own Words (2019): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt11284244/ and https://www.martinmargielafilm.co.uk/ Margiela, the Hermès Years, Momu, Antwerp (31 March 2017 – 27 August 2017): https://www.momu.be/en/exhibitions/new-entry-2 MARGIELA / GALLIERA, 1989-2009, Palais Galliera (3 March – 15 July 2018): http://www.palaisgalliera.paris.fr/en/exhibitions/margiela/galliera-1989-2009

We talk about the clothes of our favourite characters from the fabulous Peter Bogdanovich film What’s Up, Doc? See links below. Peter Bogdanovich (director), Polly Platt (production and costume designer), What’s Up, Doc? (1972): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0069495/ Aaron Hunter, Polly Platt: Authorship by Design (2018): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RsXW2H3_wIo Adam Hulin (director), By Bogdanovich, part 1 (2011): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jw2FMVsZdTA Howard Hawks (director), Howard Greer (costume design, gowns), Bringing Up Baby (1938): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0029947/ Marimekko: https://company.marimekko.com/en/about-marimekko/history/ Peter Bogdanovich (director), Polly Platt (production and costume design), Paper Moon (1973): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0070510/ Peter Bogdanovich (director), Polly Platt (production and costume design), The Last Picture Show (1971): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0067328/

We discuss our favourite designers, wondering what criteria we should use to decide on our favourite designers ... See links below. Hans Holbein, Christina of Denmark, Duchess of Milan (National Gallery, London, 1538): https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/hans-holbein-the-younger-christina-of-denmark-duchess-of-milan Witt Library: https://courtauld.ac.uk/study/resources/image-libraries/witt-library Headdress Frames, Museum of London: https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/search/#!/results?terms=headdress%20frame Joanna Freedman, A study of female dress worn in England, c.1525-1545: with specific reference to the Lisle Letters, Courtauld Institute of Art Dissertation (1991): https://tinyurl.com/qmk68ft Simone Rocha: https://simonerocha.com/ Rebecca Arnold, ‘Vionnet and Classicism’, in Vionnet, Judith Clark Costume (15 March – 16 April 2001): https://judithclarkcostume.com/wp-content/uploads/Judith-Clark-16pp-Vionnet.pdf Elsa Schiaparelli: https://www.schiaparelli.com/en/21-place-vendome/the-life-of-elsa/ Pierre Balmain, My Years and Seasons (Cassell 1964): https://books.google.co.uk/books/about/My_Years_and_Seasons.html?id=Hv7bAAAAMAAJ Louiseboulanger, Evening dress, Metropolitan Museum of Art (1928): https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/83209 Rebecca Arnold, 30-Second Fashion (Ivy Press 2016): https://www.quartoknows.com/books/9781782406679/30-Second-Fashion.html Jeanne Lanvin: https://www.lanvin.com/fi/maison/jeanne-lanvin/ Jeanne Lanvin, Palais Galliera, Paris (8 March - 23 August 2015): http://www.palaisgalliera.paris.fr/en/exhibitions/jeanne-lanvin ‘Indiscrétions : le New Look 49’, Pierre Balmain, Jacques Fath and Maggy Rouff (1949): https://www.ina.fr/video/AFE85002936/indiscretions-le-new-look-49-video.html Dans l’atelier de Sonia Rykiel, Archive INA (1969): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hnbc3z40ZsU ‘Helmut Lang: The Searching Stays with You', 032c (19 December 2013): https://032c.com/helmut-lang-the-searching-stay-with-you 'Romeo Gigli on Photographic Collaborations', AnOther (31 July 2012): https://www.anothermag.com/art-photography/2094/romeo-gigli-on-photographic-collaborations Maison Margiela, Fall 2012 Couture: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2012-couture/maison-martin-margiela Jean-Paul Gaultier: https://www.jeanpaulgaultier.com/fr-fr/le-createur/ Katharine Hamnett: https://katharinehamnett.com/ Dries van Noten: https://www.driesvannoten.com/

We talk about the incredible 1915-16 crime serial Les Vampires and its compelling star Musidora AKA Irma Vep ... See links below. Louis Feuillade, Les Vampires (1915-16): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0006206/ Les Vampires on archive.org: https://tinyurl.com/rylbufl Cinémathèque Française, Musidora sur le web (3 December 2019): https://www.cinematheque.fr/article/1492.html Musidora talks to journalist Jean Thévenoz in 1948: https://www.rts.ch/archives/radio/divers/emission-sans-nom/4523749-musidora-la-vamp.html Site of Les Amis de Musidora: https://www.musidora.org/ ‘La vie d’une vamp par Musidora (Ciné-Mondial 1942)', La Belle Equipe(29 June 2015): https://www.la-belle-equipe.fr/2015/06/29/la-vie-dune-vamp-par-musidora-cine-mondial-1942/ Vicki Callahan, 'Zones of Anxiety: Movement, Musidora, and the Crime Serials of Louis Feuillade' (Wayne State University Press 2005): https://www.wsupress.wayne.edu/books/detail/zones-anxiety Palais Galliera, ‘Anatomie d’une Collection’ (2016): http://www.palaisgalliera.paris.fr/fr/edition/anatomie-dune-collection (contains photo of one of Musidora’s bodysuits) Didier Chappet, ‘Casque d'Or et les Apaches’, Le Blog Gallica (8 January 2018): https://gallica.bnf.fr/blog/08012018/casque-dor-et-les-apaches?mode=desktop Ossi Oswalda: https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0652661/ Ernst Lubitsch (director), I don’t want to be a man (1918): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0010281/

We talk about the TV programmes we currently find solace in - which in our case means Cheer and The Real Housewives – and what they tell us about ourselves, fashion and beauty. See links below. Greg Whiteley (director), Cheer (2020): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt11426660/ Scott Dunlop (creator), The Real Housewives of Atlanta (2008-): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1252370/

We talk about the fabulous Louise Weber, better known as La Goulue, a French Cancan dancer whose photos feature in the Musée de Montmartre in Paris. See links below. Musée de Montmartre: https://museedemontmartre.fr/ Jean Renoir (director), Rosine Delamare (costume design), French Cancan (1955): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0046998/ La Goulue retrouve Montmartre, 12/13 Paris Ile de France (16 March 1992): https://www.ina.fr/video/PAC02021108/la-goulue-retrouve-montmartre-video.html Portrait - La Goulue femme libérée, Télé Matin (1 April 2019): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dEjraI9pdeI Maryline Martin, La Goulue: Reine du Moulin Rouge (éditions du Rocher 2019): https://www.editionsdurocher.fr/livre/fiche/la-goulue-9782268101200 Nadine Biss, La Goulue, ARTHive Revue (15 September 2014): https://wheatonarthive.wordpress.com/2014/09/15/la-goulue/ Michel Souvais, Moi, la Goulue de Tolouse-Lautrec(Publibook des Ecrivains 2008) François Gasnault, Nuits parisiennes: Chahut, cancan et galop infernal..., talk coinciding with the exhibition ‘Les nuits parisiennes, du Palais-Royal au Palace’ at l'Hôtel de Ville de Paris 2017-2018 (2 January 2018): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YGeoPOjIEbA Photographic cabinet card showing Kitty Lord, Museum of London (early 20th century): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/717253.html

We discuss Lisa Immordino Vreeland’s beautifully conceived and edited documentary about Cecil Beaton. See links below. Courtauld Institute of Art, Research Forum Events (2020): https://courtauld.ac.uk/research/research-forum/events Cecil Beaton, Designs for the ballet Apparitions (1936): https://tinyurl.com/t96zg5r Carte de visite of Kitty Lord: https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/717253.html Kitty Lord’s pink boots: https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/431352.html Lisa Immordino Vreeland (director), Love, Cecil (2017): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt5275884/ Bill Verity (director), Beaton by Bailey (1971): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt2205427/ Cecil Beaton Studio Archive at Sothebys: https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/cecil-beaton-studio-archive Cecil Beaton’s royal portraits at the V&A: https://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/cecil-beaton Cecil Beaton, The Glass of Fashion (first published in 1954): https://www.rizzoliusa.com/book/9780847843855/ Leslie Howard and Maurice Elvey (directors), The Gentle Sex (1943): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0035931/ George Cukor (director), My Fair Lady (1964): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0058385/ Vincente Minelli, Charles Walters (directors), Gigi (1958): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0051658/ Vincente Minelli (director), On a clear day you can see forever (1970): (https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0066181/ André Previn (music) and Alan Jay Lerner (lyrics), Coco (1969), excerpt: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6g7o6sjrqcg

We discuss Basil Dearden’s fascinating 1959 film Sapphire - which shows the intricacies of identity in post war London. See links below. Basil Dearden (director), Julie Harris (costume design), Sapphire (1959): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0053242/ Sapphire on Retrospective’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7HYYhQwYZEE Sapphire on Reelstreets: https://www.reelstreets.com/films/sapphire/ Josephine Botting, ‘Remembering Julie Harries: costume designer for Bond and Hitchcock’, BFI (2 June 2015): https://www.bfi.org.uk/news-opinion/news-bfi/features/remembering-julie-harris-costume-designer-bond-hitchcock ‘The Look of Austerity’, special issue of Fashion Theory, Volume 21, Issue 4 (2017): https://www.tandfonline.com/toc/rfft20/21/4?nav=tocList Lynda Nead, ‘”Red Taffeta Under Tweed”: the color of post-war clothes’, Fashion Theory, Volume 21, Issue 4 (2017): https://eprints.bbk.ac.uk/30543/ Roger Mayne, Southam Street: http://www.rogermayne.com/sstreet/southamstreet.html Bryan Forbes (director), Beatrice Dawson (costume design), The L-Shaped Room (1962): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0057239/

We discuss the exhibition ‘An English Lady’s wardrobe’ at Walker Art Gallery in Liverpool which features a selection from a very large collection of clothes owned by one woman in the first half of the 20th century. See links below. Bassano Studio, Woman modelling bed jacket (1934): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/520641.html An English lady’s wardrobe, Walker Art Gallery, National Museums Liverpool (25 October 2019 – 1 March 2020): https://www.liverpoolmuseums.org.uk/whatson/walker-art-gallery/exhibition/english-ladys-wardrobe#section--the-exhibition Pauline Rushton, ‘Mrs Tinne’s Wardrobe: A Liverpool Lady’s Clothes 1900-1940’ (National Museums Liverpool 2019): https://shop.liverpoolmuseums.org.uk/products/mrs-tinnes-wardrobe-a-liverpool-ladys-clothes-1900-1940

We discuss two 1940s films - The Gentle Sex (1943) and It Always Rains on Sunday (1947) - and the fascinating ways they portray wartime and post-war femininities. See links below. Rebecca Arnold, ‘Fashion in Ruins: Photography, Luxury and Dereliction in 1940s London’, Fashion Theory, Vol. 21, Issue 4 (2007): https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2016.1254426 Claire McCardell, Popover Dress (1942): https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/C.I.45.71.2ab/ Vera Maxwell, Jumpsuit (1945): https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/155844 Leslie Howard (director), The Gentle Sex (1943): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0035931/ Robert Hamer (director), Anthony Mendleson (wardrobe supervisor), It Always Rains on Sunday (1947): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0040481/ Arthur La Bern, writer of the novel It Always Rains on Sunday (1945): http://www.london-books.co.uk/authors/arthurlabern.html London Locations of It Always rains on Sunday: https://www.reelstreets.com/films/it-always-rains-on-sunday/ BFI, Introduction to It Always rains on Sunday (2013): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5b4Pkl1JgFM Imperial War Museum, Anderson Shelters in London (1940): https://www.iwm.org.uk/collections/item/object/205070170

We discuss Jean Paul Gaultier’s incredible final show and the wonders of looking at couture clothes in museum storerooms. See links below. Rebecca Arnold, Fashion: A Very Short Introduction (OUP 2009): https://global.oup.com/academic/product/fashion-a-very-short-introduction-9780199547906 and https://e.jd.com/30536485.html Gaultier Paris – Spring-Summer 2020 Fashion Show: https://www.jeanpaulgaultier.com/en-gb/jpglive/ and https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-couture/jean-paul-gaultier Catherine Ringer and Les Rita Mitsouko: http://www.catherineringer.com/ The Clothworkers’ Centre at the V&A: https://www.vam.ac.uk/info/the-clothworkers-centre-for-the-study-and-conservation-of-textiles-and-fashion Paul Poiret, ‘Toujours’ Dress, 1911 (VA&): http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O139787/toujours-dress-paul-poiret/ Paul Iribe, Les Robes de Paul Poiret (1908): https://archive.org/details/lesrobesdepaulpo00irib Dress by Madeleine Vionnet, 1937 (V&A): http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O319608/dress-vionnet-madeleine/ Schiaparelli, Evening ensemble, 1938 (V&A): http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O15665/the-circus-collection-evening-ensemble-elsa-schiaparelli/ Claire McCardell, Day ensemble, c. 1950 (V&A): http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O74836/womans-day-ensemble-mccardell-claire/ Dress Collections in the UK: https://www.dressandtextilespecialists.org.uk/collections-map/

We discuss Frédéric Tscheng’s 2019 documentary Halston and consider the American designer’s incredible work. See links below. Fréderic Tcheng (director), Halston (2019): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt9358192/ Halston on Dogwoof: https://dogwoof.com/halston Jack Hazan (director), A Bigger Splash (1973): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0071219/ (contains Ossie Clark show footage) Dwight Hemion/Joe Layton (directors): My name is Barbra, TV Special (1965): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0243435/ Elaine Gross and Fred Rottman, Halston: An American Original (Harper Collins 1999): https://books.google.co.uk/books/about/Halston.html?id=mLRxQgAACAAJ Leslie Frowick, Halston: Inventing American Fashion (Rizzoli 2014): https://www.rizzolibookstore.com/halston-inventing-american-fashion Patricia Mears and Emma McClendon, Yves Saint Laurent + Halston (YUP 2015): https://yalebooks.yale.edu/book/9780300211511/yves-saint-laurent-halston Jenny Lister (author, editor), Mary Quant (V&A 2019): https://www.vam.ac.uk/shop/mary-quant-hardback-157216.html

We discuss the Dora Maar exhibition at Tate Modern, and especially enjoy seeing her fascinating fashion and street photography. ‘Dora Maar’, Tate Modern, London (to 15 March 2020): https://www.tate.org.uk/whats-on/tate-modern/exhibition/dora-maar ‘Modern Couples: Art, Intimacy and the Avant-garde’, Barbican Art Gallery, London (10 October 2018 – 27 January 2019): https://www.barbican.org.uk/whats-on/2018/event/modern-couples-art-intimacy-and-the-avant-garde Brian Dillon, ‘The Voraciousness and Oddity of Dora Maar’s Pictures’, The New Yorker (21 May 2019): https://www.newyorker.com/culture/photo-booth/the-voraciousness-and-oddity-of-dora-maars-pictures Liz Jobey, ‘The mesmerising art of Dora Maar’, Financial Times (15 November 2019): https://www.ft.com/content/0ee21c42-05a6-11ea-9afa-d9e2401fa7ca Dora Maar, ‘Untitled’ (c. 1934), MoMA: https://www.moma.org/collection/works/56376 Dora Maar, ‘Untitled’ (c. 1930), MoMA: https://www.moma.org/collection/works/56382 Hans-Christian Dany, ‘MA-1. Mode und Uniform’ (Edition Nautilus 2018): https://edition-nautilus.de/programm/ma-1-mode-und-unifo Antwaun Sargent, ‘The New Black Vanguard: Photography between Art and Fashion’ (Aperture 2019): https://aperture.org/shop/the-new-black-vanguard/ Patrick Baty, ‘The Anatomy of Colour’ (Thames & Hudson 2017): https://thamesandhudson.com/the-anatomy-of-colour-9780500519332

We revisit our favourite game - this time choosing the fashion photographs we would like to inhabit. See links below. Nick Knight: https://www.nickknight.com/ Edward Steichen, Marion Morehouse, 1927: https://www.gettyimages.co.uk/detail/news-photo/model-marion-morehouse-standing-with-both-hands-on-her-hips-news-photo/507047690 Helmut Newton, Yves Saint-Laurent, Rue Aubriot, French Vogue, Paris (1975): https://www.christies.com/lotfinder/Lot/helmut-newton-19202004-yves-st-laurent-rue-6225247-details.aspx Gordon Parks, Fath Show Stoppers, Paris 1951: http://www.gordonparksfoundation.org/about-gordon-parks/photography-archive/fashion-1948-61?view=slider#19 Gordon Parks on Google Arts & Culture: https://artsandculture.google.com/entity/m02t_dy ‘A Hectic Week of Paris Showings’, Life (5 March 1951): https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=0UsEAAAAMBAJ&lpg=PA102&dq=%22jacques%20fath%22&pg=PA105#v=onepage&q&f=false Franz Xaver Winterhalter, Empress Eugénie Surrounded by her Ladies-in-Waiting (1855): https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Winterhalter_Franz_Xavier_The_Empress_Eugenie_Surrounded_by_her_Ladies_in_Waiting.jpg Martin Munkacsi: Stephen Mooallem, ‘Astonish Me: The Making of Harper’s Bazaar’, Harper’s Bazaar (23 February 2017): https://www.harpersbazaar.com/culture/features/a20537/making-of-harpers-bazaar/ Anthony Gordon (photographer), Alex Arts (model), ‘Alex Works: Careering through the Eighties’, The Face No. 100, September 1988 on Paul Gorman Is: https://www.paulgormanis.com/?p=21154

We discuss Mae West - her transgressive and contradictory negotiations of gender, sexuality, class and ethnicity, her body image and her incredible film costumes and extravagant jewels. See links below. Lowell Sherman (director), Edith Head (costume designer, uncredited), ‘She done him wrong’ (1933): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0024548/ Wes Ruggles (director), Travis Banton (costume designer), ‘I’m No Angel’ (1933): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0024166/fullcredits Leo McCarey (director), Travis Banton (costume designer), ‘Belle of the Nineties’ (1934): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0024873/ Jill Watts, ‘Mae West: An Icon in Black and White’, Oxford University Press (2003): https://global.oup.com/academic/product/mae-west-9780195161120 Mae West speaks at UCLA (5 December 1971): https://comm.ucla.edu/content/speaker-series-mae-west-5121971 FIDM Museum, ‘Mae West’ (14 August 2009): https://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2009/08/mae-west.html Bert Williams, Library of Congress: https://www.loc.gov/item/ihas.200038860/ Cait Miller, ‘Celebrating Bessie Smith: “Empress of the Blues”’, In the Muse - Performing Arts Blog, Library of Congress (30 April 2018): https://blogs.loc.gov/music/2018/04/celebrating-bessie-smith-empress-of-the-blues/ Jacob Bagwell, Anjelica Huston and Peter Lester, ‘New Again: Mae West’, Interview Magazine (11 December 2013, first published in 1974): https://www.interviewmagazine.com/film/new-again-mae-west

We discuss Lina Iris Viktor’s mesmerising exhibition at Autograph and the 1981 documentary ‘Edith Head: Portrait of a Hollywood Costume Designer’. See links below. Lina Iris Viktor, ‘Some are born to endless night – dark matter’, Autograph (13 September 2019 – 25 January 2020): https://autograph.org.uk/exhibitions/some-are-born-to-endless-night-dark-matter Lina Iris Viktor’s website: https://www.linaviktor.com/ Sarah Cascone, ‘Gustav Klimt’s Adele Bloch-Bauer Paintings to Be Reunited at Neue Galerie’, artnetnews (30 June 2016): https://news.artnet.com/exhibitions/neue-galerie-gustav-klimt-adele-bloch-bauer-paintings-535565 Christian Blackwood and Charlotte Kerr (directors), Edith Head (1981): https://www.michaelblackwoodproductions.com/project/edith-head/

We discuss the diverse and fascinating exhibits on display in ‘The Art of Innovation: From Enlightenment to Dark Matter’ at the Science Museum in London. See links below. ‘African Textiles from the Karun Thakar Collection’, Brunei Gallery, SOAS (11 October 2019 – 14 December 2019): https://www.soas.ac.uk/gallery/african-textiles/ ‘The Art of Innovation: From Enlightenment to Dark Matter’, Science Museum (25 September 2019 – 26 January 2020): https://www.sciencemuseum.org.uk/see-and-do/art-innovation-enlightenment-dark-matter Ciba-Geigy Review: https://discover.libraryhub.jisc.ac.uk/search?q=ciba+geigy+review Caroline Alexander, ‘Faces of War’, Smithsonian Magazine (February 2007): https://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-culture/faces-of-war-145799854/ Jeanne Willette, ‘Henry Tonks: Torn Portraits: The Art of Facial Reconstruction’, arthistoryunstuffed (1 July 2016): https://arthistoryunstuffed.com/henry-tooks-torn-portraits-the-art-of-facial-reconstruction/ Allison Meier, ‘The Sculptor who made masks for soldiers disfigured in World War I’, Hyperallergic (8 September 2016): https://hyperallergic.com/314255/the-sculptor-who-made-masks-for-soldiers-disfigured-in-world-war-i/ Sandra Kemp, ‘Future Face: Image, Identity, Innovation’, Science Museum (October 2004 – February 2005): https://wellcomecollection.org/books/WwVK3CAAAHm5ExyF and http://www.bbc.co.uk/ouch/features/future_face_exhibition_at_the_science_museum_london.shtml

We talk about the display The Clash: London Calling which just opened at the Museum of London and the National Army Museum’s exhibition of Abram Games’ wartime posters. See links below. The Clash: London Calling, Museum of London (15 November 2019 – 19 April 2019): https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/museum-london/whats-on/exhibitions/london-calling-40-years-clash Designed by: http://www.calumstorrie.com/ London Calling: 1979 panel discussion (22 November 2019): https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/museum-london/whats-on/london-calling-1979?id=232008 Lou Adler (director), Nancy Dowd (writer), Ladies & Gentlemen: The Fabulous Stains (1982): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0082639/ Martin Davidson, Stephen Verona (directors), Glenda Ganis (costume design), The Lords of Flatbush (1974): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0071772/ The Art of Persuasion: Wartime Posters by Abram Games, National Army Museum (6 April 2019 - 24 November 2019): https://www.nam.ac.uk/whats-on/art-persuasion-wartime-posters-abram-games

We talk about clothes worn by Isabelle Huppert and Chloë Grace Moretz in the film Greta and a slightly puzzling 1920s dress in the Museum of London’s collection. See links below. Neil Jordan (director), Joan Bergin (costume design), Greta (2018): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt2639336/ Nick Chen, Greta is a film about loneliness, and using designer bags to make friends, Dazed, 16 April 2019: https://www.dazeddigital.com/film-tv/article/44019/1/greta-film-neil-jordan-chloe-grace-moretz-isabelle-huppert Jules David Prown, ‘The Truth of Material Culture: History or Fiction?’, in Jules David Prown and Kenneth Haltman, American Artifacts: essays in material culture.(Michigan State University Press 2000), pp. 11-27 Valerie Steele, A Museum of Fashion is More Than a Clothes-Bag, Fashion Theory, Volume 2, Issue 4 (1998), pages 327-335: https://doi.org/10.2752/136270498779476109

We discuss punk girls in the 1982 film Ladies & Gentlemen: The Fabulous Stains and Bianca Saunders wonderful exhibition Nearness in Brixton, London. See links below. Lou Adler (director), Nancy Dowd (writer), Ladies & Gentlemen: The Fabulous Stains (1982): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0082639/ Trailer for Ladies & Gentlemen: The Fabulous Stains (1982): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=06kCwPpyjCk Caroline Coon, The film ‘Ladies and Gentlemen, the Fabulous Stains!’ was originally ‘All Washed Up!’: http://www.carolinecoon.com/stainspage.htm Jessica Heron-Langton, ‘Bianca Saunders enlists her family to star in her new Brixton exhibition’, Dazed (25 October 2019): https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/46511/1/bianca-saunders-nearness-exhibition-ronan-mckenzie-akinola-davies-caleb-femi Kemi Alemoru, ‘Bianca Saunders’ Black History Month exhibit is a comforting ode to the diaspora’, Gal-Dem (25 October 2019): https://gal-dem.com/bianca-saunders-nearness-new-exhibit-black-history-month/ http://biancasaunders.co.uk/

We wonder whether there is a trend for cocooning clothes to protect us from the anxieties of contemporary politics ... and discuss the V&A’s Tim Walker exhibition ... See links below. Best in Show: Rebecca Arnold, Show Studio (2 June 2019): https://www.showstudio.com/projects/best_in_show/best-show-rebecca-arnold Definition of froufrou: https://www.larousse.fr/dictionnaires/francais/froufrou/35436 Carola Bauckholt, Hirn & Ei (2010/11), performed at Detmolder Sommertheater (Juni 2014): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U-fHqfGpmdw Tim Walker: Wonderful Things, V&A (until 8 March 2020): https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/tim-walker Have fun! by Tim Walker, Vogue Italia (14 November 2016): https://www.vogue.it/en/fashion/cover-fashion-stories/2016/11/14/have-fun-vogue-italia-november-2016/ Museum of London, The Kindred of the Kibbo Kift: https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/discover/kibbo-kift-collection-focus Cathy Ross, Designing Utopia: John Hargrave and the Kibbo Kift (Bloomsbury 2015): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/designing-utopia-9781781300404/ Annebella Pollen, The Kindred of the Kibbo Kift: Intellectual Barbarians (Donlon Books 2016): https://donlonbooks.com/products/the-kindred-of-the-kibbo-kift-intellectual-barbarians-by-annebella-pollen Biographical notes regarding George W. Taylor: http://dla.library.upenn.edu/dla/pacscl/ead.pdf?id=PACSCL_UPENN_RBML_PUSpMsColl1210 George W. Taylor, The Full-Fashioned Hosiery Worker His Changing Economic Status (first published 1931): https://www.upenn.edu/pennpress/book/1881.html

We discuss the new book Avedon Advertising - which includes an essay by Rebecca on Richard Avedon’s incredible work. See links below. Richard Avedon, The Richard Avedon Foundation, Laura Avedon, James Martin, Rebecca Arnold, Avedon Advertising (Abrams 2019): https://www.abramsandchronicle.co.uk/book/9781419733383-avedon-advertising/ The Richard Avedon Foundation: https://www.avedonfoundation.org/ Helen Whitney (director), Richard Avedon: Darkness and Light (1996): https://youtu.be/4XElT1udbFM JUN ROPE' CM / Richard Avedon ・Lauren Hutton (1973) 120 second: https://youtu.be/DqBomuf2uGY JUN ROPE’ CM / Richard Avedon・Anjelica Huston (1973) 60 second: https://www.collectibledry.com/fashion-and-beauty/jun-rope-cm-richard-avedon/ JUN ROPE' CM / Richard Avedon・Jean Shrimpton (1973) 60 second: https://youtu.be/svR2XvhWXtc JUN ROPE' CM / Richard Avedon・ベラシカ (1973) 30 second: https://youtu.be/Y2Y-SVck7n0

We talk about Lady Hale’s amazing spider brooch, the joy of seeing Dries van Noten and Christian Lacroix working together and Perry Henzell’s 1972 film The Harder They Come. See links below. Dries Van Noten and Christian Laxroix (SS 2020): https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/dries-van-noten Reiner Holzemer (director), Dries (2017): https://www.driesfilm.com/ Perry Henzell (director and co-writer), Trevor Rhone (co-writer), The Harder They Come (1972): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0070155/ The Harder They Come Trailer: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=imGkQdE7N2s Ras Daniel Hartman (plays Pedro in The Harder They Come): https://www.rasdanielheartman.com/ Ulrick Casimir, ‘A question of audience: revisiting Perry Henzell’s The Harder They Come’, Jump Cut, No. 53 (summer 2011): https://www.ejumpcut.org/archive/jc53.2011/CasimirHarderThCome/text.html Raphael Dalleo, ‘Performing Postcoloniality in the Jamaican Seventies: The Harder They Come and Smile Orange’, Postcolonial Text, Vol 6, No 1 (2011): https://www.postcolonial.org/index.php/pct/article/view/1213/1124 Kirsta Thompson, “I WAS HERE BUT I DISAPEAR”: Ivanhoe “Rhygin” Martin and Photographic Disappearance in Jamaica, art journal Open (14 August 2018): http://artjournal.collegeart.org/?p=10123

We discuss the wonders of Bonhams jewellery sale and the historical references contained within jewellery design Still Processing podcast: https://www.nytimes.com/column/still-processing-podcast Emily Barber: https://www.instagram.com/gemilybarber/ Bonhams Jewels: https://www.instagram.com/bonhamsjewels/?hl=en London Jewels auction, Bonhams (24 September 2019): https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/25315/ Buccellati: http://uk.buccellati.com/en/private-collection London’s Fashion Alphabet, G – Garnet (17 September 2019): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EgS1RK-nIFQ Alice Cicolini: http://www.alicecicolini.com/ William Hogarth, Miss Mary Edwards (1742), The Frick Collection: https://collections.frick.org/objects/details/207/miss-mary-edwards

We discuss the evolution of fashion shows and debate the reason for their continuation. See links below. Pyer Moss: https://pyermoss.com/ Vanessa Friedman, ‘The Rebirth of New York Fashion’, New York Times (12 September 2019): https://www.nytimes.com/2019/09/12/style/marc-jacobs-new-york-fashion-week.html Leandra Medine, ‘Why Was NYFW Trendless This Season?’, Manrepeller (9 September 2019): https://www.manrepeller.com/2019/09/nyfw-trends.html Rodarte: http://www.rodarte.net/ John Maybury (director), Rifat Ozbek Fashion Video 1989: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qcCYlg7cAPc Tatum Dooley, 'Vaquera, CDLM/Creatures of the Wind, and Section 8 Will Showcase Their Spring Summer 2020 Collections Together During NYFW’, Teen Vogue (13 August 2019): https://www.teenvogue.com/story/brands-will-stage-three-way-fashion-show-nyfw-springsummer2020 Thebe Magugu: https://www.thebemagugu.com Elizabeth Paton, ‘Thebe Magugu Wins LVMH Prize for Young Designers’, New York Times (4/9 September 2019): https://www.nytimes.com/2019/09/04/fashion/thebe-magugu-wins-lvmh-prize-for-young-designers.html Tamsin Blanchard, Matt Fidler and Joanna Ruck, ‘The view from the front row – a history of the fashion show – photo essay’, The Guardian online (15 February 2018): https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2018/feb/15/the-view-from-the-front-row-a-history-of-the-fashion-show-photo-essay

We talk about cosmetics between the wars, the traces our garments leave on us and our surroundings as well as the times when clothes fail us. See links below. Rebecca Arnold, ‘The Kodak Ensemble: Fashion, Images and Materiality in 1920s America’, Fashion Theory (15 July 2019): https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2019.1638166 The Vintage Compact Shop, Richard Hudnut (15 April 2017): https://thevintagecompactshop.com/blogs/antique-and-collectible-history/richard-hudnut-compacts-heritage Tre-Jur Advertisement (1924): https://www.periodpaper.com/products/1924-ad-tre-jur-makeup-cosmetics-compact-lipstick-blush-rouge-powder-jewel-case-116999-thm-232 Grace Lee, Evening Essential: Grace’s Family’s 1930s Minaudière, Documenting Fashion (12 December 2017): http://blog.courtauld.ac.uk/documentingfashion/tag/minaudiere/ Ewald André Dupont (director), Piccadilly (1929): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0020269/ Aria Darcella, Remember when a dress almost destroyed Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers?, CR (21 June 2018): https://www.crfashionbook.com/celebrity/a21656038/fred-astaire-ginger-rogers-wardrobe-malfunction/ Jean Harlow and Wallace Beery in George Cukor (director), Dinner at Eight (1933): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=om9nTKzGXqc (gowns by Adrian) Mitchell and Kenyon Collection. September 1902 – Fair in North England, Leeds (1902): https://youtu.be/zABSkm8Q3mE (nice selection of feathered accessories) Styling Hollywood, Netflix (2019): https://www.netflix.com/gb/title/80204364

We talk about a recent visit to the Imperial War Museum North, particularly the interplay of architecture and objects. See links below. Imperial War Museum North: https://www.iwm.org.uk/visits/iwm-north Daniel Libeskind, IWM Project: https://libeskind.com/work/imperial-war-museum-north/ Peter Jackson, They Shall Not Grow Old, Trailer (2018): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PcgceA64aAI Uniforms and insignia on display at IWM: https://tinyurl.com/y5qtg86b Marlene Dietrich’s uniform jacket: https://www.iwm.org.uk/collections/item/object/30099912 Marlene Dietrich’s uniform trousers: https://www.iwm.org.uk/collections/item/object/30099913 War Through Other Stuff: https://warthroughotherstuff.wordpress.com/

We discuss the wonderful exhibition of Finnish artist Helene Schjerfbeck’s work at the Royal Academy. See links below. Helene Schjerfbeck, Royal Academy of Arts (20 July – 27 October 2019): https://www.royalacademy.org.uk/exhibition/helene-schjerfbeck Helene Schjerfbeck, Schirn Kunsthallle Frankfurt (2 October 2014 – 11 January 2015): http://schirn.de/schjerfbeck/ (good introduction) Tina Berning: https://www.instagram.com/tina_berning and https://tinaberning.de/

We discuss the intimate relationship between fashion and interiors, as expressed in couture salon and stores, and how these relate to “backstage” areas where the garments are made. Jess Berry, House of Fashion: Haute Couture and the Modern Interior (Bloomsbury Visual Arts 2018): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/house-of-fashion-9781474283403/ John Pawson’s Jigsaw Store, London (1995-1996): http://www.johnpawson.com/works/jigsaw-store Nigel Coates’ Jigsaw Stores, London (1990): https://nigelcoates.com/projects/project/jigsaw British Movietone, Victor Stiebel’s Salon (1958): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rHdtgslRAXo Beatrice Behlen, ‘A Fashionable History of the King's Road’, in Anjali Bulley (ed), Cadogan & Chelsea: The Making of a Modern Estate (Unicorn 2017): https://www.press.uchicago.edu/ucp/books/book/distributed/C/bo28498331.html Helmut Lang shop, New York (1997): http://www.gluckmantang.com/projects/helmut-lang/#2 Helmut Lang Perfumerie, New York (2001): http://www.gluckmantang.com/projects/helmut-lang-parfumerie/#1 Images of Maison Myrbor on Gallica: https://tinyurl.com/y3fa7wca Olivia Chuba, ‘Making Fashion: Humphrey Jennings, Norman Hartnell, And Fashion As Documentary’, Documenting Fashion (10 April 2018): http://blog.courtauld.ac.uk/documentingfashion/tag/documentary/ Erving Goffman, The Presentation of Self in Everyday Life (1956): https://monoskop.org/images/1/19/Goffman_Erving_The_Presentation_of_Self_in_Everyday_Life.pdf Mark Shaw Photographic Archive: https://markshawphoto.com Taryn Simon, ‘Paperwork and the Will of Capital’, Gagosian Gallery (2 January – 2 February 2019): https://gagosian.com/exhibitions/2019/taryn-simon-paperwork-and-the-will-of-capital/ Samantha Erin Safer, ‘Designing Lucile Ltd: Couture and the Modern Interior 1900-1920s’, The Journal of the Decorative Arts Society 1850 - the Present, No. 33, Decorative Art and the World of Fashion (2009), pp. 38-53

190811-P68 Catching Up We catch up on each other’s news - including seaside fashion, Crocs, Manolo Blahnik at the Wallace Collection and The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel. Ellie Pithers, ‘Can Christopher Kane Make Crocs Covetable?’, Vogue Online (20 September 2016): https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/christopher-kane-crocs-trend Chester Himes, A Rage in Harlem (1957): https://www.penguin.co.uk/books/180/180468/a-rage-in-harlem/9780141196442.html An Enquiring Mind: Manolo Blahník at the Wallace Collection, Wallace Collection (10 June – 1 September 2019): https://www.wallacecollection.org/whats-on/coming-soon-an-enquiring-mind-manolo-blahnik-at-the-wallace-collection/ Giorgio Riello, A Foot in the Past: Consumers, Producers and Footwear in the Long Eighteenth Century (Oxford University Press 2006) Empress Marie-Antoinette’s travel essentials: https://www.museesdegrasse.com/en/evenement/box Galerie des Modes et Costumes Français (1778-1785), ‘Couturiere élégante allant livrer son ourvrage’: https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k1056746t/f177.item Jordan Peele (director), Kym Barrett (costume design), Us (2019): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt6857112 Frances Crossley (@francesrcrossley), ‘”Hell Is Other People” – Or Is It US? (3 May 2019): http://blog.courtauld.ac.uk/documentingfashion/2019/05/03/fran/ Thayaht (Ernesto Michahelles) and the TuTa: http://www.galleriarusso.com/artists/171-thayaht-ernesto-michahelles.html Fritz Lang (director), Aenne Willkomm (costume design), Metropolis (1927): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0017136/ Various directors, Donna Zakowska (costume design), The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel (2017) Mary Harron (director), Simonetta Mariono (costume design), Alias Grace (2017): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1034007/ Men’s greatcoat (1803): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/89364.html

Inspired by a recent event at Autograph ABP in London we talk about colourism and film. See links below. Celeste Bell and Zoë Howe, Dayglo!: The Creative Life of Poly Styrene (2019): https://www.waterstones.com/book/dayglo/celeste-bell/zoe-howe/9781785586163 Jordan Mooney and Cathi Unsworth, Defying Gravity: Jordan’s Story (2019): https://www.waterstones.com/book/defying-gravity/cathi-jordan/unsworth/9781785588365 Vivien Goldman, Revenge of the She-Punks: A Feminist Music History from Poly Styrene to Pussy Riot (2019): https://guardianbookshop.com/revenge-of-the-she-punks-9781477316542 Colourism and Photography, Past Event at Autograph (2 July 2019): https://autograph.org.uk/events/colourism-and-photography Nadia Latif, It’s lit! How film finally learned to light black skin, The Guardian online (21 September 2017): https://www.theguardian.com/film/2017/sep/21/its-lit-how-film-finally-learned-how-to-light-black-skin Lorna Roth, Looking at Shirley, the Ultimate Norm: Colour Balance, Image Technologies, and Cognitive Equity, Canadian Journal of Communication, Volume 34, Number 1 (2009): https://www.cjc-online.ca/index.php/journal/article/view/2196 Joan Dash, Daughters of the Dust (1991): https://player.bfi.org.uk/rentals/film/watch-daughters-of-the-dust-1991-online Angélica Dass, Humanae Project: https://www.angelicadass.com/humanae-project Broomberg & Chanarin, To photograph the details of a dark horse in low light (2012): http://www.broombergchanarin.com/#/to-photograph-a-dark-horse-in-low-light-1-1/ David Smith, 'Racism' of early colour photography explored in art exhibition, The Guardian online (25 January 2013): https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2013/jan/25/racism-colour-photography-exhibition

We talk about the concept of everyday dress following the Everyday Fashion conference in Huddersfield and Leeds. (Apologies for the helicopter noise!) See links below. Everyday Fashion: Extraordinary Stories of Ordinary Clothes (27-18 June 2019): https://research.hud.ac.uk/art-design/events/everyday-fashion-conference/ Alfred Gillet Trust (Heritage Collection of C & C Clark Ltd.): https://alfredgilletttrust.org/ M&S Company Archive: https://marksintime.marksandspencer.com/home Alison Toplis, The Clothing Trade in Provincial England, 1800–1850 (Routledge 2015): https://www.routledge.com/The-Clothing-Trade-in-Provincial-England-18001850-1st-Edition/Toplis/p/book/9781138664449 Rebecca Arnold, The American Look: Fashion and the Image of Women in 1930's and 1940's New York (Bloomsbury 2008): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/the-american-look-9781860647635/ Cheryl Buckley and Hazel Clark, Fashion and Everyday Life: London and New York (Bloomsbury 2017): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/fashion-and-everyday-life-9781474273121/ Sophie Woodward’s publications: https://www.research.manchester.ac.uk/portal/sophie.woodward.html Daniel Miller’s publications: https://www.ucl.ac.uk/anthropology/people/academic-and-teaching-staff/daniel-miller Ben Highmore, Everyday Life and cultural theory: an introduction (Routledge 2002): http://sro.sussex.ac.uk/id/eprint/21290/ Ben Highmore, Ordinary Lives: studies in the everyday (Routledge 2011): http://sro.sussex.ac.uk/id/eprint/20103/ Michel de Certeau, The Practice of Everyday Life (2011, first published in 1980): https://www.ucpress.edu/book/9780520271456/the-practice-of-everyday-life John Styles’ publications: https://www.researchgate.net/profile/John_Styles King of Fashion: The Autobiography of Paul Poiret (V&A 2019, first published 1931): https://www.vam.ac.uk/shop/king-of-fashion-the-autobiography-of-paul-poiret.html Elizabeth Hawes, Fashion is Spinach (Random House 1938): https://archive.org/stream/fashionisspinach00hawerich/fashionisspinach00hawerich_djvu.txt

We discuss the brilliant new exhibition Get Up, Stand Up Now: Generations of Black Creative Pioneers at Somerset House. See links below. Get Up, Stand Up Now: Generations of Black Creative Pioneers, Somerset House (12 June – 15 September 2019): https://www.somersethouse.org.uk/whats-on/get-up-stand-up-now Zak Ové: http://www.zak-ove.co.uk/ Horace Ové (director), Pressure (1976): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0075098/ Horace Ové, The Black Safari (1972): https://www.bfi.org.uk/films-tv-people/4ce2b6f601fde Normski: http://www.normskiphotography.com/ Barbara Walker: https://www.barbarawalker.co.uk/ David Hammons: https://www.moma.org/artists/2486 Sanford Biggers: http://sanfordbiggers.com/ Marlon James: https://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/authors/240287/marlon-james Hank Willis Thomas: https://www.hankwillisthomas.com/ Campbell Addy: https://campbelladdy.com/ Nick Cave at Jack Shainman Gallery: https://www.jackshainman.com/artists/nick-cave/ Ari Haque: https://ari-potter.com/

We discuss the allure of 1930s gangster style, as seen in American and Japanese films. Links are below. Holly Marler’s collection for Liberty London (June 2019): https://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/liberty-london-fashion Documenting Fashion Blog: http://blog.courtauld.ac.uk/documentingfashion/ Rich Cohen, The Original Gangster Style, New York Times (10 June 2019): https://www.nytimes.com/2019/06/10/fashion/the-original-gangster-style-guy.html Mervyn LeRoy (director), Little Caesar (1931): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0021079/ Albert Parker (director), The Black Pirate (1926): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0016654/ Yasujirô Ozu (director), Walk Cherfully (1930): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0020980/ The Ozu Collection – The Gangster Films, BFI (1929-1933): https://www.bfi.org.uk/blu-rays-dvds/ozu-collection-gangster-films Frank R. Strayer, Rough House Rosie (1927): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0018345/ Pamela Hutchison, Walk Cheerfully (1930: Yasujiro Ozu’s Toe-Tapping Tough Guys, Silent London (8 May 2018): https://silentlondon.co.uk/2018/05/08/walk-cheerfully-1930-yasijuro-ozus-toe-tapping-tough-guys/ George Cukor (director), Dinner at Eight (1933): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0018345/

We discuss the fascinating archive of technical menswear at Westminster University. See links below. Westminster Menswear Archive: https://www.mensweararchive.com/ Westminster Menswear Archive database: https://westminster-atom.arkivum.net/index.php/westminster-menswear-archive Westminster Menswear Archive IG: https://www.instagram.com/menswear_archive/?hl=en Video about the Westminster Menswear Archive: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lEDoqc2NMgY Westminster Menswear Archive - Item 2016.138 - Padded Shooting Jacket: https://westminster-atom.arkivum.net/index.php/2016-138 Example of Chinese Fighter Pilot High Altitude Partial Pressure Suit: https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/china-air-force-mig-23-fighter-pilot-500884658 Massimo Osti Archive: https://www.massimoosti.com/the-archive/mission/ Gunner Park, The Uncompromising World of Carol Christian Poell, Grailed (19 May 2017): https://www.grailed.com/drycleanonly/carol-christian-poell-master-class W. David Marx, Ametora: How Japan Saved American Style (Basic Books 2015): https://www.basicbooks.com/titles/w-david-marx/ametora/9780465059737/ Bernard Rudofsky, Are Clothes Modern? An essay on contemporary apparel (Paul Theobald 1947): https://www.moma.org/documents/moma_catalogue_3159_300063439.pdf

We discuss which painting we would most like to live in ... See links below. Jacques-Louis David, Madame Récamier, née Julie (known as Juliette) Bernard (1777-1849), known as Portrait of Juliette Récamier, Musée du Louvre, Paris (1800): https://www.louvre.fr/en/oeuvre-notices/madame-recamier François Gérard, Portrait de Juliette Récamier, Musée Carnavalet, Paris (c. 1805): http://www.carnavalet.paris.fr/fr/collections/portrait-de-juliette-recamier-1777-1849 Jan van Eyck, The Arnolfini Portrait, National Gallery, London (about 1434): https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/jan-van-eyck-the-arnolfini-portrait Hans Memling, The Donne Tryptich, National Gallery, London (about 1478): https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/hans-memling-the-donne-triptych Oorijzers – ‘Ear-irons’ – Part 1, Atelier Nostalgia (27 September 2016): https://ateliernostalgia.wordpress.com/2016/09/27/oorijzers-ear-irons-part-1/ John Singer Sargent, Mr. and Mrs. I. N. Phelps Stokes, Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York (1897): https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/38.104/ Wash Westmoreland (director), Colette (2018): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt5437928/ James Jacques Tissot, Frederick Burnaby, National Portrait Gallery, London (1870): https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw00932/Frederick-Burnaby François-Hubert Drouais, Madame de Pompadour at her Tambour Frame, National Portrait Gallery, London (1763-4): https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/francois-hubert-drouais-madame-de-pompadour-at-her-tambour-frame Otto Dix, Bildnis der Journalistin Sylvia von Harden, Centre Pompidou (1926): https://www.centrepompidou.fr/cpv/resource/cjyXKB7/rzEpd6 August Sander, Sekretärin beim Westdeutscher Rundfunk in Köln (1931): https://art.rmngp.fr/fr/library/artworks/august-sander_sekretarin-beim-westdeutscher-rundfunk-in-koln_epreuve-gelatino-argentique_1931

We discuss Charlie Curran’s beautiful film See Know Evil which documents the life of fashion photographer Davide Sorrenti. See links below. Charlie Curran (director), See Know Evil (2018): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt8755156/ See Know Evil on Charlie Curran’s website: http://www.charliecurran.com/see-know-evil See Know Evil IG: https://www.instagram.com/see_know_evil/ Charlie Curran IG: https://www.instagram.com/myhilism/ Rebecca Arnold, Fashion Desire and Anxiety (I.B. Tauris 2001): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/fashion-desire-and-anxiety-9780857718396/ Rebecca Arnold, ‘Heroin Chic’, Fashion Theory, Volume 3, Issue 3 (1999): https://doi.org/10.2752/136270499779151405 Jake Hall, ‘Reframing the life and work of pioneering 90s photographer Davide Sorrenti’, Dazed (24 January 2019): https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/43027/1/davide-sorrenti-90s-photographer-see-know-evil-film-charles-curran-heroin-chic James Cameron (director), Terminator 2: Judgement Day (1991): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0103064/ Louise Krasniewicz and Michael Blitz, The Intersexts of Linda Hamilton’s Arms (1996): http://chnm.gmu.edu/aq/arnold/arnoldwebpages/intersext.htm and https://www.academia.edu/11345036/The_Intersexts_of_Linda_Hamiltons_Arms_updated_with_references

We discuss Max Ophüls’ 1952 film Le Plaisir and wonder at the ageing dandy portrayed in the opening section. See links below. Max Ophüls (director), Le Plaisir (1952): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0045034/ Max Ophüls (director), The Mask from Le Plaisir (1952) – with Italian subtitles: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eoBi1BeT_PQ&t=22s Robin Wood, ‘Le Plaisir: Life is Movement’ (16 September 2008): https://www.criterion.com/current/posts/548-le-plaisir-life-is-movement V.F. Perkins, ‘Le Plaisir: “The Mask” and “The Model”’, Film Quarterly (1 September 2009): https://filmquarterly.org/2009/09/01/le-plaisir-the-mask-and-the-model/ Guy de Maupassant, Le Masque (1889): http://colleges.ac-rouen.fr/pompidou/eva/IMG/pdf_Maupassant_-_Le_Masque.pdf Guy de Maupassant, The Mask (1889): http://www.online-literature.com/maupassant/4272/ Susan Buck-Morss, The Dialectics of Seeing: Walter Benjamin and the Arcades Project (MIT Press 1989): http://susanbuckmorss.info/media/files/the-dialectics-of-seeing.pdf Peter Wollen, ‘The Concept of Fashion in The Arcades Project’, boundary 2, Volume 30, Number 1, pp. 131-142 (Spring 2003): https://read.dukeupress.edu/boundary-2/article-abstract/30/1/131/6159/The-Concept-of-Fashion-in-The-Arcades-Project Ulrich Lehmann, Tigersprung: Fashion in Modernity (MIT Press 2000): https://mitpress.mit.edu/books/tigersprung The Unexpurgated Beaton Diaries (Weidenfeld & Nicolson 2002)

We wonder just what cruise and resort wear are ... Some links below. Fashion, Self-Reflexivity and the Question of Inspiration, Conference, History of Dress, Research Forum, The Courtauld Institute of Art (11 May 2019): https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/fashion-self-reflexivity-and-the-question-of-inspiration Addressing Images with Nadya Wang, The Courtauld Institute (17 May 2019): https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/addressing-images-3 Fashion Illustration Masterclass with Martin Welch, The Courtauld Institute (17 June 2019): https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/fashion-illustration-masterclass-with-martin-welch Bobby A. Suarez (director), Cleopatra Wong (1978): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0077343/ Resort 2020 Shows on Vogue Runway: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2020 April Calahan, ‘Tina Leser: Global Vision’, in Nancy Deihl (ed), The Hidden History of American Fashion: Rediscovering 20th-century Women Designers, Bloomsbury (2019) Rebecca Arnold, 'Behind the Scenes with Louise Dahl-Wolfe and Toni Frissell: Alternative Views of Fashion Photography in Mid-Century America', in Fashion Studies, Volume 1, Issue 1 (2018): https://www.fashionstudies.ca/behind-the-scenes Alison Toplis, The Smock Frock: The Journey from Fieldwork to the Pages of Vogue, Textile History, Volume 49, Issue 1 (2018): https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2018.1436245 Smock Shock: Deception and Disguise, Smock Frock Histories: http://www.smockfrock.co.uk/

We discuss the costumes in Pose, it’s influences and the history of Drag Balls. See links below. Jennie Livingston (director), Paris is Burning (1990): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0100332/ Jennie Livingston: https://www.jennielivingston.com/ Steven Canals, Brad Falchuk, Ryan Murphy (creators), Pose (2018): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt7562112/ Jamel Shabazz: http://www.jamelshabazz.com/ Armet Francis photos at V&A: http://collections.vam.ac.uk/name/francis-armet/AUTH319927/ Berry Gordy (director), Mahogany (1975): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0073335/ Monique-Antoine Orosemane (Mounia), ‘Black History Month with Fashion Bomb Daily: Mounia’ (2011): http://fashionbombdaily.com/black-history-month-with-fashion-bomb-daily-mounia/ Debbie Allen in Fame, TV Series, Season 1 (1982): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vtgmnhRQir4 RuPaul’s Drag Race (2009-): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1353056/ Alyson Hobbs, A Chosen Exile: A History of Racial Passing in American Life (Harvard University Press 2014): http://www.hup.harvard.edu/catalog.php?isbn=9780674368101 bell hooks, ‘Is Paris Burning?’, in Black Looks: Race and Representation (South End Press 1992), pp. 145-156: https://aboutabicycle.files.wordpress.com/2012/05/bell-hooks-black-looks-race-and-representation.pdf Judith Butler, ‘Gender is Burning: Questions of Appropriation and Subversion’, in Anne McClintock, Aamir Mufti, and Ella Shohat (eds.), Dangerous liaisons: gender, nation, and postcolonial perspectives (University of Minnesota Press 1997), pp. 381–395: http://pica.org/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/gender-is-burning.pdf Farid Chenoune, ‘Their ball: Notes on the Photos of Magic-City, Drag Ball of the Inter-War Period’, Modes Pratiques (January 2018): https://www.modespratiques.fr/special-issue.html# Knole: https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/knole William Larkin paintings at Kenwood House: https://www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/kenwood/history-stories-kenwood/history/collections/ William Larkin, Portrait of a Young Lady, possibly Jane, Lady Thornhaugh, 1617, Yale Center for British Art: https://collections.britishart.yale.edu/vufind/Record/4379629

We discuss the ritual of getting dressed with the help of your valet or maid in the early 20th century. See links below. Myself When Young by Iris Capell, printed by D.G. Seldon Printing Limited, Hamilton, Ontario, Canada (not dated) John Singer Sargent, The Countess of Essex, Private Collection (1906): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adele_Capell,_Countess_of_Essex#/media/File:The_Countess_of_Essex,_1906.jpg Henry Poole, Savile Row tailors: https://henrypoole.com/hp/ Le Diable à Paris (1845): https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k5578064j Louis Gould, Mommy dressing : a love story, after a fashion (1998): https://archive.org/details/mommydressinglov00goul Lucinda Hawksley, The great Victorian beard craze, BBC (17 November 2014): https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-30037914 Kate Strasdin, Inside the Royal Wardrobe: A Dress History of Queen Alexandra (2017): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/inside-the-royal-wardrobe-9781474269933/

We discuss Charles Poulsen’s memoirs of life in early 20th century London and his work in the fur trade. See links below. Charles Poulsen, Scenes from a Stepney youth (1988): https://archive.org/details/scenesfromstepne00poul Charles Hobday, Charles Poulsen (obituary), The Guardian (14 December 2001): https://www.theguardian.com/news/2001/dec/14/guardianobituaries.humanities British Pathé, Fur Coat (1953) – shows nailing: https://www.britishpathe.com/video/fur-coat/query/furrier Lyon’s Corner House Menu (1914) – no egg mayonnaise: https://www.kzwp.com/lyons1/tariff1914.htm Photograph of Nippy, Museum of London (1925-1933): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/468522.html

We discuss Moses Quiquine's wonderful art that crosses time and space, and his exhibition ‘Voodoo Child: Identity, Spirituality & Fashion’ at The Africa Centre in London. See links below. Moses Quiquine: ‘Voodoo Child’, The Africa Centre, London (22/03/2019 –17/04/2019): https://www.africacentre.org.uk/blog/moses-quiquine-voodoo-child-exhibition/ Moses Quiquine: https://www.instagram.com/mosesquiquine/ Igor Kopytoff, 'The cultural biography of things: Commodization as process', in Arjun Appadurai (ed), The social life of things: commodities in cultural perspective (CUP 1986): http://ls-tlss.ucl.ac.uk/course-materials/ANTH7021_68798.pdf

We talk about the work of some of the artists working with textiles who are part of TJ Boulting's current exhibition Subversive Stitch. See links below. UCL, The Survey of London, Boulting & Sons (19 May 2017): https://blogs.ucl.ac.uk/survey-of-london/2017/05/19/boulting-sons/ Subversive Stitch, TJ Boulting (14 February – 23 March 2019): http://www.tjboulting.com/exhibitionspage/509/subversive-stitch Subversive Stitch conversation – Charlotte Edey, Lilah Fowler and Celia Pym (20 March 2019): http://www.tjboulting.com/newsandevents Roszika Parker, The Subversive Stitch (2010, first published 1984): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/the-subversive-stitch-9781848852839/ Goldsmiths, University of London, The Subversive Stitch Revisited: The Politics of Cloth: https://www.gold.ac.uk/subversivestitchrevisited/ Hrafnhildur Arnardóttir / Shoplifter: http://www.shoplifter.us/ Emma de Clercq, We meet Icelandic artist Shoplifter at her hair-filled Brooklyn studio, Infrigne (20 October 2016): https://www.infringe.com/shoplifter/ Nick Cave: http://nickcaveart.com/Main/Intro.html Nick Cave, Soundsuits – Pogo Group, Denver Art Museum (2013): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T3UtqxQS1hk James Merry: https://www.jtmerry.com/ Olga Frantskevich, biography at The Gallery of Everything, London: https://www.gallevery.com/artists/olga-frantskevich Judith Scott, Creative Growth Art Centre: http://www.creativegrowth.org/artists/judith-scott/ Judith Scott – Bound and Unbound, Brooklyn Museum, New York (24 October 2014 – 29 March 2015): https://www.brooklynmuseum.org/exhibitions/judith_scott/ Celia Pym: http://celiapym.com/

We discuss McDermott & McGough’s inspiring Oscar Wilde Temple at Studio Voltaire in Clapham, and its link to Aesthetic Dress. McDermott & McGough, The Oscar Wilde Temple, Studio Voltaire, London (3 October 2018 – 28 April 2019): https://www.studiovoltaire.org/exhibitions/ The Oscar Wilde Temple: https://www.oscarwildetemple.org/ McDermott & McGough: http://www.mcdermottandmcgough.com/ V&A, An Introduction to the Aesthetic Movement (2018): https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/an-introduction-to-the-aesthetic-movement Stella Mary Newton, Health, Art & Reason – Dress Reformers of the 19th Century (John Murray 1974) Liberty silk dress made by Denyer & Co, Museum of London (1881-82): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/77441.html Opera Cape made of Liberty fabric, Museum of London (1893-98): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/89403.html

We discuss our love of Molly Goddard and other female designers making clothes that women want to wear now. Molly Goddard: https://mollygoddard.com/ Dress Portrait, Molly Goddard and Sarah Edwards, Chelsea Space (23 January - 1 March 2019): http://www.chelseaspace.org/archive/dress-portrait-info.html Ana Kinsella, How a Dress Can Be More Than a Commodity, Frieze (20 February 2019): https://frieze.com/article/how-dress-can-be-more-commodity Killing Eve, Series 1:2, Costume designer Phoebe de Gaye (15 September 2018): https://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/p06kc8mb/killing-eve-series-1-2-ill-deal-with-him-later Lily-Evelina England, Fashioning the dangerous woman in 'Killing Eve' (23 November 2018): http://blog.courtauld.ac.uk/documentingfashion/2018/11/23/fashioning-the-dangerous-woman-in-killing-eve/ Smock Frock Histories: http://www.smockfrock.co.uk/ and https://www.instagram.com/smockfrock98/ Batsheva: https://www.batsheva.com The Vampire's Wife: https://thevampireswife.com/ Horror Vacui: https://horror-vacui.com/ Chloe Malle, Pioneer Women Are Roaming the City, The New York Times (12 September 2018): https://www.nytimes.com/2018/09/12/style/prairie-woman-style-batsheva-doen.html Carl Williams, Revival: Laura Ashley, Apollo (27 September 2013): https://www.apollo-magazine.com/revival-laura-ashley/ Reina Lewis, Modest Fashion: Styling Bodies, Mediating Faith (2013): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/modest-fashion-9781780763828/ Dressed: The History of Fashion podcast, Cult Style: an interview with Sarah Byrd (26/02/2019): https://www.dressedpodcast.com/podcasts/cult-style-an-interview-with-sarah-byrd.htm

We discuss Valerie Steele's recent talk at the London College of Fashion about the current exhibition at and history of the Fashion Institute of Technology Museum in New York. See also links below. Exhibitionism: 50 Years of The Museum at FIT (8 February 2019 – 20 April 2019): https://www.fitnyc.edu/museum/exhibitions/exhibitionism.php Valerie Steele and Colleen Hill (eds): Exhibitionism: 50 Years of The Museum at FIT (2019): http://www.skira.net/en/books/exhibitionism Exhibiting Fashion Symposium, FIT (8 March 2019): https://www.fitnyc.edu/museum/events/symposium/exhibiting-fashion/index.php 50 Years of The Museum at FIT: Fashion as Cultural Heritage (14 March 2019): https://www.fitnyc.edu/museum/events/index.php#MFIT Walter Vecchio (photos) and Robert Riley (text), The Fashion Makers: A Photographic Record (Crown Publisher 1968) Annalee Gold, ‘Talks with a Costume Conservator’, American Craft (October/November 1981): http://www.bettykirke.com/articles/Craftmag/acm.html Judith Clark and Amy de la Haye with Jeffrey Horsley, Exhibiting Fashion: Before and After 1971(Yale University Press 2014): https://yalebooks.yale.edu/book/9780300125795/exhibiting-fashion Julia Petrov, Fashion, History, Museums: Inventing the display of dress (Bloomsbury 2019): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/fashion-history-museums-9781350048997/ Lou Taylor, Establishing Dress History (Manchester University Press 2005) Centre for Fashion Curation at LCF: https://www.arts.ac.uk/research/research-centres/centre-for-fashion-curation#

We discuss the beautiful exhibition at Alexander McQueen’s Old Bond Street store that shows the research and design process for the current collection. See links below. Unlocking Stories (2019): https://www.alexandermcqueen.com/experience/en/unlocking-stories/ Hand & Lock: https://handembroidery.com/ Maison Lesage: http://www.lesage-paris.com/ Edwina Ehrman and Amy de la Haye, London Couture: British Luxury 1923-1975 (2015): https://www.vam.ac.uk/shop/london-couture-british-luxury-1923-1975-131549.html

We discuss the new exhibition at the Fashion Space Gallery at London College of Fashion, Mundo Latinx, curated by White Line Projects. See links below. Fashion Space Gallery, London College of Fashion, Mundo Latinx (8 Feb to 5 May 2019): http://www.fashionspacegallery.com/exhibition/mundo-latinx/ White Line Projects: http://www.whitelineprojects.com/ Lucia Cuba (official website): http://www.luciacuba.com/ Ada Alti, ‘Articulo 6 Project by Lucia Cuba’ Trendland (10/03/2013): https://trendland.com/articulo-6-project-by-lucia-cuba/ Lucia Cuba (interviewer) and Mauricio Delfin (video), ‘We have woken up’, interview with Aurelia Paccohuanca and Micaela Flores (January 2012): https://vimeo.com/42281777 Lucia Cuba and Eduardo Delgado (camera & edition), Articulo 6 (2013): https://vimeo.com/41995578 Ciudadaniasx, Proyecto Artículo 6 de Lucia Cuba (2013): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ANAVwIKFfyk Lauren Cocking, ‘Photography as Catharsis: An interview with Chiapan photographer Diego Moreno’, The Culturetrip (12 December 2016): https://theculturetrip.com/north-america/mexico/articles/photography-as-catharsis-an-interview-with-chiapan-photographer-diego-moreno/ Diego Moreno, ‘In my mind there is never silence’, Photographic Museum of Humanity (10/06/2016): https://phmuseum.com/DiegoMoreno/story/in-my-mind-there-is-never-silence-d136bf1e79

We wonder about the allure of pleats, the history of pleating, and our favourite designer examples of pleats. See links below. Vogue, Sacai, Resort 2019: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2019/sacai/slideshow/collection#34 Lassner Plissee, History of Plissee (in German): http://lassner-plissee.de/Geschichte/geschichte.html Business of Fashion, 'Inside Chanel's Subsidiary, Lognon, Pleater' (2015): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h_GU0uOgNrc Refinery29, 'How a Dior Dress is Made' (2015): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FT1Fc92-eFY The Hunt Museum, Sybil Connolly, online exhibition (2018): http://www.huntmuseum.com/explore-the-exhibition/ Elizabeth Kutesko, 'How Can We Decolonise Fashion History? A Case Study: the Guarani-Kaiowá, Mato Grosso do Sul, Brazil', Research Forum, Courtauld Institute (8/2/2019): https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/how-can-we-decolonise-fashion-history-a-case-study-the-guarani-kaiowa-mato-grosso-do-sul-brazil Elizabeth Kutesko, 'Fashioning Brazil Globalization and the Representation of Brazilian Dress in National Geographic' (2018): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/fashioning-brazil-9781350026605/

We discuss the recent sale of Catherine Deneuve’s Yves Saint Laurent clothes, and wonder about the values and meanings attached to vintage fashions. See links below ... Catherine Deneuve et Yves Saint-Laurent [sic], Christie's, Sale 17514, 24 January 2019, results: https://www.christies.com/catherine-deneuve-et-yves-28219.aspx Jess Cartner-Morley, 'Catherine Deneuve is selling her Yves Saint Laurent wardrobe - but that look will never go away', The Guardian (15 January 2019): https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2019/jan/15/catherine-deneuve-is-selling-her-yves-saint-laurent-wardrobe-but-that-look-will-never-go-away AnOther, 'Catherine Deneuve Sells $1 Million Worth of Yves Saint Laurent Couture' (25 January 2019): https://www.anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/11444/catherine-deneuve-sells-1-million-worth-of-yves-saint-laurent-couture Rencontres Couture à Paris de la Collection Didier Ludo, Sotheby's, Sale PF1570, 8 July 2015, results: http://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/2015/collection-didier-ludot-pf1570.html Didier Ludot, Paris: https://www.didierludot.fr/ Raphael Samuel, Theatres of Memory: Past and Present in Contemporary Culture (1994): https://www.versobooks.com/books/1098-theatres-of-memory Michael Clarke, 'Exhibition Review: Madeleine Vionnet: 15 Dresses from the Collection of Martin Kamer', Fashion Theory, Vol. 6, 2002, Issue 3: https://doi.org/10.2752/136270402790577631 Rosa Vertov, 'Tina Chow: The inventor of "minimal chic"', Vertov, 7 March 2018: https://shopvertov.com/blogs/vintage-inspiration/tina-chow-the-inventor-of-minimal-chic

We discuss the current Yves Saint Laurent exhibition in Paris and the representation of Eastern cultures in fashion, and consider the extravagant vision of Busby Berkeley films from the 1930s. See links below ... Les Nadar, une légende photographique, Bibliothèque Nationale de France, Paris (16 October 2018 - 3 February 2019): http://www.bnf.fr/m/fr/m_actualites/m_anx_expos/f.nadar_legende_photographique.html L'Asie rêvée d'Yves Saint Laurent, Musée Yves Saint Laurent, Paris (2 October 2018 - 27 January 2019): https://museeyslparis.com/expositions/asie-revee-yves-saint-laurent Mélody Thomas, ‘Expo: Ce que l’Asie Rêvée d’Yves Saint Laurent nous dit de la mode actuelle’, Marie Claire (14 October 2018): https://www.marieclaire.fr/exposition-l-asie-revee-d-yves-saint-laurent,1284384.asp Susie Lau, ‘Saint Laurent’s Dreams of the Orient: “When you know a culture, you can’t make mistakes’, The Guardian (2 October 2018): https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2018/oct/02/saint-laurents-dreams-of-the-orient-when-you-know-a-culture-you-cant-make-mistakes Connaissance des Arts, [Avant-Première] ‘L'Asie rêvée d'Yves Saint Laurent’ (24 September 2018): https://youtu.be/4MjGN30QAOs Télé Matin, ‘Mode – Yves Saint Laurent, voyageur imaginaire’ (27 November 2018): https://youtu.be/xvq-M1dt7ws Ray Enright, Busby Berkeley (directors), Dames (1934): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0025028/ Phyllis Rose, Jazz Cleopatra: Josephine Baker in Her Time, Doubleday (1989): https://archive.org/details/jazzcleopatrajos00rose

We discuss the delights and dilemmas of layers, and question why some designers are better remembered than others. See information and links below. Hardy Amies, Just So Far (Collins 1954) Hardy Amies, ABC of Men’s Fashion (V&A 2008, first published in 1964): https://www.vam.ac.uk/shop/abc-of-men-s-fashion-94479.html Hardy Amies, Still Here: An Autobiography (Weidenfeld and Nicolson 1984) Hardy Amies, The Englishman’s Suit (Quartet Books 2013, first published in 1994): https://www.quartetbooks.co.uk/shop/the-englishmans-suit/ Ossie Clark and Lady Henrietta Rous (ed), The Ossie Clark Diaries (Bloomsbury 1998) Norman Hartnell, Silver and Gold (Pitman 1956) Norman Hartnell, Royal Courts of Fashion (Littlehampton 1971) Victor Stiebel, South African Childhood (HarperCollins 1968) Edwina Ehrman & Amy de la Haye, London Couture: British Luxury 1923-1975 (V&A 2015): https://www.vam.ac.uk/shop/london-couture-british-luxury-1923-1975-131549.html Neville Jacobs in Balenciaga: https://www.instagram.com/p/BrVcIy7FXST/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

We discuss the power of costume in Powell & Pressburger’s 1947 film Black Narcissus and the amazing silent film actress Asta Nielsen. Michael Powell, Emeric Pressburger (directors), Black Narcissus (1947): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0039192/ Reviews of Black Narcissus: http://www.powell-pressburger.org/Reviews/47_BN/index.html Asta Nielsen, Die schweigende Muse (Wilhelm Heyne Verlag, 1979, first published 1945/46) Asta Nielsen's page on Women Film Pioneers Project: https://wfpp.cdrs.columbia.edu/pioneer/asta-nielsen-2/ Urban Gad (director), Afgrunden (1910), dance scene: https://youtu.be/criEcLXgUQ0 Urban Gad (director), Die Suffragette (1913): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0132536 Asta Nielsen Flickr Album, Danish Film Institute / The Film Museum: https://www.flickr.com/photos/36461985@N08/albums/72157630867865856

We discuss the wonderful Atelier E.B: Passer-by exhibition at the Serpentine Gallery, and wonder about the ethics of using people’s fashion choices for targeting political propaganda. See links below. Atelier E.B: Passer-by at Serpentine Gallery (2018-19): https://www.serpentinegalleries.org/exhibitions-events/atelier-eb-passer Atelier E.B: Passer-by exhibition guide (2018): https://www.serpentinegalleries.org/files/downloads/1636.serp_atelier_e.b_guide_aw_no_crops.pdf Eric Newton, 'First surrealist art exhibition in England - archive, 1936', The Guardian (12/06/2018, originally 12/06/1938): https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2018/jun/12/first-surrealist-art-exhibition-in-england-archive-1936 RA Collections Team, 'How to read it: Meredith Frampton’s Still Life' (17/02/2017): https://www.royalacademy.org.uk/article/how-to-read-it-meredith-frampton Marguerite V. Hodge, 'Enigmatic Bodies: Dolls and the Making of Japanese Modernity', Nineteenth-century art worldwide, vol. 12, issue 1 (spring 2013): http://www.19thc-artworldwide.org/spring13/hodge-enigmatic-bodies (mentions Yasumoto Kamehachi) Gene Moore’s work for Tiffany & Company: https://edan.si.edu/slideshow/slideshowViewer.htm?eadrefid=NMAH.AC.1280_ref113 Lynn Hershman Leeson, Project for Bonvit Teller (1976): http://www.lynnhershman.com/project/site-specific-installations/ Rudolf Belling, Sculptures and Architectures, exhibition at Hamburger Bahnhof, Berlin (2017): https://www.smb.museum/en/exhibitions/detail/rudolf-belling-skulpturen-und-architekturen.html Mannequin Museum, Wolfgang Knapp, KulturGut: http://www.mannequin-museum.com/ Tag Gronberg, Designs on modernity: Exhibiting the city in 1920s Paris (2003): http://www.manchesteruniversitypress.co.uk/9780719066740/ Rebecca Arnold, 'Fashion in Ruins: Photography, Luxury and Dereliction in 1940s London', Fashion Theory, vol. 21, issue 4 (2017): https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/1362704X.2016.1254426 Bethan Bide, 'More than window dressing: visual merchandising and austerity in London’s West End, 1945–50', Fashion Theory, vol. 60, issue 7 (2018): https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00076791.2017.1400531 Vikram Alexei Kansara, 'Cambridge Analytica Weaponised Fashion Brands to Elect Trump, Says Christopher Wylie', Business of Fashion (29/11/2018): https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/news-analysis/cambridge-analytica-weaponised-fashion-brands-to-elect-trump-says-christopher-wylie Vanessa Freedman and Jonah Engel Bromwich, 'Cambridge Analytica Used Fashion Tastes to Identify Right-Wing Voters', New York Times (29/11/2018): https://www.nytimes.com/2018/11/29/style/cambridge-analytica-fashion-data.html

We talk about Jessie Redmon Fauset's 1928 novel Plum Bun and the affinities between the sense of taste and fashion and beauty. See links below. Jessie Redmon Fauset, Plum Bun (1928): http://www.beacon.org/Plum-Bun-P136.aspx Jacquelyn Y. Mclendon, The Politics of Color in the Fiction of Jessie Fauset and Nella Larsen (1995): https://www.upress.virginia.edu/title/2892 Smithsonian, The Scurlocks and Black Washington (2009): https://www.smithsonianmag.com/videos/category/history/the-scurlocks-and-black-washington/ Douglas Sirk, Imitation of Life (1959): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0052918/ Sofia Coppola, Marie Antoinette (2006): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0422720 Rebecca Arnold, '‘The New Rococo: Sofia Coppola And Fashions In Contemporary Femininity’, in Katie Scott and Melissa Hyde, Rococo echo: art, history and historiography from Cochin to Coppola (2014): http://blog.courtauld.ac.uk/documentingfashion/files/2015/09/Rebecca-Arnold-New-Rococo-from-Rococo-Echoes.pdf Raymond Meier photographs for Harper's Bazaar: http://raymondmeier.com/harpers-bazaar/ Lernert & Sander, Natural Beauty (2011): https://www.nowness.com/story/lernert-sander-natural-beauty

We discuss artist Ellen Nolan’s fascinating archive of her great aunt Nita Harvey’s stage and film career. See links below. Nita Harvey Archive page on Ellen Nolan's website: http://www.ellennolan.com/Art/nita/nita.html Ellen Nolan's blog which contains many Nita Harvey images: http://www.ellennolan.com/wp/ 'A Beautiful Dream That Went for a Walk', Voice (2 June 1934): https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/218834069 Nita Harvey on IMDb: https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0367663/ You Must Remember This podcast: http://www.youmustrememberthispodcast.com/ Richard Dyer, Stars (1998): http://www.worldcat.org/title/stars/oclc/39370252 Fancy Dress on Screen Archive South East: http://screenarchive.brighton.ac.uk/portfolio/screen-search-fashion/leisure/fancy-dress/

We discuss the ways fashion and autobiography intersect - prompted by a visit to see clothes in the Museum of London archive. See links below. Edwina Ehrman and Amy de la Haye (eds), London Couture: British Luxury 1923-1975 (2015): https://www.vam.ac.uk/shop/london-couture-british-luxury-1923-1975-131549.html (article on couture clients features Lady Fox and Lady Delamere) Photos of Myra Alice (née Newton), Lady Fox at NPG: https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/person/mp91931/myra-alice-nee-newton-lady-fox Lady Fox's skating outfit at Museum of London: https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/discover/ice-skating-fashion-craze James Fox, White Mischief (1998, first published 1982): https://www.penguin.co.uk/books/103/1034644/white-mischief/9780099766711.html Michael Radford, White Mischief (1988): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0094317/ Lisa Cohen, “Frock Consciousness”: Virginia Woolf, the Open Secret, and the Language of Fashion, Fashion Theory, Vol. 3, Issue 2 (1999): https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.2752/136270499779155032 Lisa Cohen, “VELVET IS VERY IMPORTANT”: Madge Garland and the Work of Fashion, GLQ - A Journal of Lesbian and Gay Studies, Vol. 11, Issue 3 (2005): https://read.dukeupress.edu/glq/article-abstract/11/3/371/9851/VELVET-IS-VERY-IMPORTANT-Madge-Garland-and-the?redirectedFrom=fulltext Iris Marion Young, Throwing Like a Girl And Other Essays in Feminist Philosophy and Social Theory (1999): http://www.iupress.indiana.edu/product_info.php?products_id=806576

We discuss the ways clothes feel versus the way they look, and Autograph’s brilliant Omar Victor Diop exhibition. See links below. Fanshawe mantua at Museum of London (1753): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/85096.html Lynn Sorge-English, Stays and Body Image in London: The Staymaking Trade, 1680-1810 (2011): https://www.routledge.com/Stays-and-Body-Image-in-London-The-Staymaking-Trade-16801810/Sorge-English/p/book/9781138661424 Daniel Miller, Mukulika Banerjee, The Sari (2008): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/the-sari-9781847883148/ Honoré-Victorin Daumier, De l'utilité de la crinoline pour frauder l'octroi (1857), Art Institute of Chicago: https://www.artic.edu/artworks/84651 Omar Victor Diop at Autograph (2018): https://autograph.org.uk/exhibitions/liberty-diaspora Omar Victor Diop website: https://www.omarviktor.com/ Omar Victor Diop interviewed for Paris Photo (2016): https://vimeo.com/190321094 Omar Victor Diop at Design Indaba (2017): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=auWl6z733O4 Arpita Shah at Autograph: https://autograph.org.uk/exhibitions/purdah-the-sacred-cloth Arpita Shah website: http://arpitashah.com/

We discuss the mesmerising exhibition of Frances Upritchard’s work at the Barbican, and enjoy the multi-layered references in Simon Grennan’s book Drawing in Drag by Marie Duval. See links below. Francis Upritchard: Wetwang Slack (2018): http://sites.barbican.org.uk/wetwangslack/ Francis Upritchard at Kate Macgarry: http://www.katemacgarry.com/artists/francis-upritchard/ Hammer Projects: Francis Upritchard (2014-2015): https://hammer.ucla.edu/exhibitions/2014/hammer-projects-francis-upritchard/ Mackenzie Stevens, An “Unruly Material: Balata in Francis Upritchard’s Practice (2014): https://hammer.ucla.edu/blog/2014/12/an-unruly-material-balata-in-francis-upritchards-practice/ Tessa Giblin, The Borrowings of Francis Upritchard (2017): https://christchurchartgallery.org.nz/bulletin/187/the-borrowings-of-francis-upritchard In Conversation: Peter Pilotto (2016): https://www.matchesfashion.com/womens/the-style-report/2016/11/the-statement-issue/in-conversation-peter-pilotto-amex-francis-upritchard-collaboration Fenberger House: https://www.fenbergerhouse.com/ The Pruitt-Igoe Myth (2011): http://www.pruitt-igoe.com/ Simon Grennan, Drawing in Drag by Marie Duval (2018): https://www.bookworks.org.uk/node/1943 The Marie Duval Archive: http://www.marieduval.org/ Le Diable à Paris (about second edition): https://blog.paris-libris.com/gavarni-granville-le-diable-a-paris-paris-et-les-parisiens-a-la-plume-et-au-crayon-2/

We discuss two exhibitions that opened in London this week: Anni Albers at Tate Modern and Night & Day: 1930s Fashion and Photographs at the Fashion & Textile Museum. See links below. Anni Albers, Tate Modern, London: https://www.tate.org.uk/whats-on/tate-modern/exhibition/anni-albers Stiftelsen Almgrens Sidenväveri & Museum, Stockholm: http://www.kasiden.se/english-summary/ Paridise Mill and The Silk Museum, Macclesfield: https://macclesfieldmuseums.co.uk/ Night & Day: 1930s Fashion and Photographs, Fashion & Textile Museum, London: https://www.ftmlondon.org/

We consider the wonders of menswear prompted by Murnau's 1921 film Schloss Vogelöd and discuss the V&A Museum’s current Frida Kahlo exhibition. See links below. Fritz Murnau (director), Schloss Vogelöd (1921): https://www.murnau-stiftung.de/movie/812 Antony Beevor, The Mystery of Olga Chekhova (2005): https://www.penguin.co.uk/books/54988/the-mystery-of-olga-chekhova/9780141017648.html Roberta S. Kremer (ed), Broken Threads: The Destruction of the Jewish Fashion Industry in Germany and Austria (2006): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/broken-threads-9781845206604/ Frida Kahlo exhibition, V&A (2018): https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/frida-kahlo-making-her-self-up Museo Frida Kahlo, Mexico: http://www.museofridakahlo.org.mx/en/the-blue-house/ Appearances Can Be Deceiving: The Dresses of Friday Kahlo, Friday Kahlo Museum, Mexico City (2012 – 2013): https://judithclarkcostume.com/exhibitions/appearances-can-be-deceiving-the-dresses-of-frida-kahlo/ Appearances Can Be Deceiving: The Dresses of Friday Kahlo, Google Arts & Culture: https://artsandculture.google.com/exhibit/6gICPDLcNAzkJA Georgia O'Keeffe: Living Modern, Brooklyn Museum (2017): https://www.brooklynmuseum.org/exhibitions/georgia_okeeffe_living_modern Conformismo e trasgressione: il guardaroba di Gabriele d'Annunzio (1988): http://booksinprogressmilano.tumblr.com/post/157952827051/il-guardaroba-di-gabriele-dannunzio-conformismo

We devise the Bande à part Manifesto of acceptable approaches to fashion design based on our observations of the current collections. See links below. Chromat Spring 2019 RTW on Vogue Runway: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/chromat#collection Pyer Moss: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/pyer-moss#collection Derrick Adams: http://www.derrickadams.com/ Matty Bovan: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/matty-bovan#collection Dries Van Noten: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/dries-van-noten#collection Marc Jacobs: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/marc-jacobs#collection Dice Kayek: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/dice-kayek#collection

We discuss the hidden diversity of interwar London and the wonders of Art Smith’s Modernist jewellery. See also links below. Evelyn Waugh, Vile Bodies (1930): https://www.penguin.co.uk/books/57050/vile-bodies/9780141182872.html Marc Matera, Black London: The Imperial Metropolis and Decolonization in the Twentieth Century (2015): https://www.ucpress.edu/book/9780520284302/black-london Black Chronicles (NPG/ABP project 2016): https://www.npg.org.uk/whatson/blackchronicles/explore/autograph-abp Christopher Reed, 'A Vogue That Dare Not Speak its Name: Sexual Subculture During the Editorship of Dorothy Todd, 1922–26', Fashion Theory (2006): https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.2752/136270406778050996 Patrick Elliott and Sacha Llewellyn, 'True to Life: British Realist Painting in the 1920s & 1930s' (2017): https://www.nationalgalleries.org/shop/all-books/national-galleries-scotland-books/true-life-british-realist-painting-1920s-1930s-exhibition-book Hearts magazine: http://heartsmagazine.net/ Art Smith @ Cooper Hewitt: https://collection.cooperhewitt.org/people/18049319/

We discuss the Kevyn Aucoin documentary and various makeup styles we’d like to try. Plus, why are there so many documentaries now? Links to some of what we talk about below. Lori Kaye, Kevyn Aucoin: Beauty & the Beast in Me (2017): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt6972670/ Lottie Winter on Kevyn Aucoin (2017): https://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/who-is-kevyn-aucoin-everything-you-need-to-know Way Bandy: https://www.nytimes.com/1986/08/15/obituaries/way-bandy-makeup-artist-and-best-selling-writer-dies.html Visage, Fade to Grey (1982): https://youtu.be/UMPC8QJF6sI David Bowie, Ashes to Ashes (1980): https://youtu.be/CMThz7eQ6K0 Sandy Linter, Disco Beauty (1979): http://sparklearmy.com/blog/?p=287 Jennifer Lopez, Waiting For Tonight (1999): https://youtu.be/_66jPJVS4JE

We talk about the appeal of buying clothes from catalogues. See links below. Marshall & Snelgrove catalogue, 'The Visits of Veronica' (1929): http://www.20thcenturylondon.org.uk/mol-77-150-39 Kays catalogues: https://www.worc.ac.uk/discover/world-of-kays-website-charts-20th-century-fashions%20.html

We discuss the significance of costume in Otto Preminger’s film Bonjour Tristesse (1958). See also links below. François Sagan, Bonjour Tristesse (1954): http://www.francoisesagan.fr/4.aspx Otto Preminger, Bonjour Tristesse (1958): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0051429/ Saul Bass title sequence: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=VyfxT7CzB94 Photos by Lionel Kazan taken during the filming: https://en.vogue.fr/fashion-culture/fashion-books/diaporama/lionel-kazan-remembers-the-filming-of-bonjour-tristesse/34055

We discuss department stores we have known and loved. Kaufhaus Weyrauch: https://www.kaufhaus-weyrauch.de/historie/ Morleys Brixton Department Store: https://www.morleysbrixton.co.uk/about-morleys/ Bon Marché Department Store Brixton: https://thedepartmentstore.com/history/ Rebecca Arnold, The American Look: Fashion and the Image of Women in 1930's and 1940's New York (2008): https://tinyurl.com/y83uz547 Emile Zola, The Ladies' Paradise (1883): https://global.oup.com/academic/product/the-ladies-paradise-9780199536900 John Guillermin (director), The Crowded Day (1954): http://www.screenonline.org.uk/film/id/1408156/index.html William Wyler (director), Mrs Miniver (1942): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0035093/

We wonder what natural makeup is, and marvel at Nick Knight’s photographs of Rihanna. Blog post by cosmeticsandskin about Pan-Cake Make-Up: https://cosmeticsandskin.com/bcb/cake.php Vogue UK September 2018 Issue Cover: https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/rihanna-september-cover-british-vogue-2018 Madame Yevonde: http://www.madameyevonde.com/ Azuma Makoto: http://azumamakoto.com/ Azuma Makoto making iced flowers for Dries van Noten (2015): https://youtu.be/4y8h5bh30-o Victor Stiebel's Overalls for Constance Spry Ltd at V&A: http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1276042/overalls-stiebel-victor/

We discuss the recent Vivienne Westwood film and ponder what we want from fashion documentaries. Lorna Tucker, Westwood: Punk, Icon, Activist (2018): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt4378628/ Gillian Greenwood, Vivienne Westwood (1990, episode of The South Bank Show): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1574390/ Douglas Keeve, Unzipped (1995): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0114805/

We discuss the film Smithereens and early 1980s fashion, and what we value in Modern Jewellery. Susan Seidelman (director), Smithereens (1982): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0084698/fullcredits Interview with Susan Berman (1982): https://player.vimeo.com/video/277148700 Maripol: http://www.maripol.com/who-i-am Maribeth Keane & Jessica Lewis on Modernist Jewellery (2009): https://www.collectorsweekly.com/articles/an-interview-with-modernist-studio-jewelry-collector-marbeth-schon/

We discuss the brilliant Antonio Lopez documentary and ponder on the relationship between 1970s fashion as seen in magazines versus what was worn on the street. Fendi campaign (2018): https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/fashion/fashion-news/a22102910/north-west-kim-kardashian-fendi-campaign/ Matti Suuronen, Futuro House (1968): http://www.thefuturohouse.com/ James Crump, Antonio Lopez 1970: Sex Fashion & Disco (2018): http://sexfashiondisco.com/ Marguerite Duras, Baxter, Vera Baxter (1977): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0074190/fullcredits

We talk about the Archaeology of Fashion Film conference and Queer Eye. Archaeology of Fashion Film: http://archfashfilm.arts.ac.uk/ Stella Scott, The Performers (2017): https://www.stellascott.net/the-performers Isaac Lock, Black (2018): http://somesuch.co/directors/isaac-lock/reel/black/ Vitoria de Mello Franco, Divinas (2018): https://www.nowness.com/story/divinas-victoria-de-mello-franco Queer Eye (2018): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt7259746/

We discuss holiday packing and capsule wardrobes, and just what makes certain people’s style so visually compelling. The Conversations with Jason Campbell & Henrietta Galina: https://itunes.apple.com/gb/podcast/the-conversations/id1328893989 Issue 1 of Fashion Studies: https://www.fashionstudies.ca/issue-1 Alison Matthews David, Fashion Victims (2015): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/fashion-victims-9781472577740/

We discuss the wonders of pre-code film Finishing School, and think about Edie Beale’s fashion sense as seen in the new film That Summer. George Nichols Jr. & Wanda Tuchock (directors), Finishing School (1934): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0025117/ Women Film Pioneers: https://wfpp.cdrs.columbia.edu/pioneer/ccp-wanda-tuchock/ Göran Olsson (director), That Summer (2017): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt7057306/

We discuss looking at Antonio and Bouché drawings and the intricacies of cataloguing fashion in the museum. Gray M.C.A: https://www.graymca.com/ Velwyn: http://www.velwyn.com/ Frida Wannerberger: https://www.fridawannerberger.com/ What Do We Want From Fashion Writing And Imagery Now?: https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/what-do-we-want-from-fashion-writing-and-imagery-now

We discuss World War I London society fashions as seen in Tatler and The Sketch, and the fashion illustration events at The Courtauld Institute. Photographs of Bertram Park: https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/person.php?LinkID=mp05646&role=art&displayNo=60 Fashion Illustration Now (15 June 2018): https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/fashion-illustration-now Kenneth Paul Block: https://www.societyillustrators.org/kenneth-paul-block Kenneth Paul Block exhibition at mfa Boston (2015-16): https://www.mfa.org/exhibitions/kenneth-paul-block La Mode en Peinture (published 1982-c.1990): https://www.instagram.com/p/BMtb1RihNpq/?hl=en

We discuss photographs of mock weddings and cross-dressing and the notorious 1973 ‘Battle of Versailles’ fashion show. Under Cover: A Secret History of Cross-Dressers: https://thephotographersgallery.org.uk/whats-on/exhibition/under-cover-secret-history-cross-dressers Sebastien Lifshitz: http://sebastienlifshitz.com/ Bambi (Marie-Pierre Pruvot): https://www.bambi-officiel.com/tout-sur-bambi/ Versailles '73: American Runway Revolution (2013): http://www.versailles73movie.com/ Review of Robin Ghivan, The Battle of Versailles (2015): https://www.nytimes.com/2015/05/03/books/review/the-battle-of-versailles-by-robin-givhan.html

We discuss the intricacies of dress as passing and dress as performance. Passing: Fashion in American Cities (2018): https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/passing-fashion-american-cities Modes pratiques: https://www.modespratiques.fr/special-issue.html Allyson Hobbs, A Chosen Exile (2014): http://www.hup.harvard.edu/catalog.php?isbn=9780674368101 Jennie Livingston, Paris is Burning (1990): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0100332/

We discuss the fascination of fancy dress and the wonders of fashion photography up close. Weldon's Fancy Dress Catalogue (1920s): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/536070.html A Dress for Spring (2015): http://blog.museumoflondon.org.uk/dress-spring/ Screen Archive South East - Fashion: http://screenarchive.brighton.ac.uk/portfolio/screen-search-fashion/ V&A Prints & Drawings Study Room: https://www.vam.ac.uk/info/study-rooms#prints-drawings-study-room Martin Munkacsi at ICP: https://www.icp.org/browse/archive/constituents/martin-munkacsi?all/all/all/all/0

We discuss interviewing family members (and others) for fashion history, and the wonders of Bonham’s jewellery sales. Exploring 20th Century London website: http://www.20thcenturylondon.org.uk/ 'All about my mother' - article in sisterMag (2012): https://tinyurl.com/y6upplox Instagram account of Bonhams' jewellery department: @bonhamsjewels Instagram account of Emily Barber: @gemilybarber

We discuss fashion’s fascination with nature and related ethical issues, prompted by the new V&A exhibition Fashioned From Nature. V&A exhibition: https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/fashioned-from-nature Centre for Sustainable Fashion at LCF: http://sustainable-fashion.com/ Fashion Revolution: https://www.fashionrevolution.org/ Emily Manning on Katharine Hamnett for i-D.vice: https://i-d.vice.com/en_us/article/3kqjzn/why-fashions-eco-warrior-katharine-hamnett-is-kanyes-main-muse

We discuss exhibitions that show Jil Sander and Azzedine Alaia’s purity of vision. Jil Sander exhibition: http://www.museumangewandtekunst.de/en/museum/exhibitions/jil-sander-present-tense.html Azzedine Alaïa website: http://www.alaia.fr/en/home.html# Vogue's review of the show (2018): https://www.vogue.com/article/azzedine-alaia-je-suis-couturier

We discuss Rosamond Bernier’s extraordinary life, and wonder about pockets. Watch a clip of Rosamond Bernier’s lecturing at The Metropolitan Museum here: http://www.rosamondbernier.com/ Leslie Camhi’s 2011 article on Rosamond Bernier for Vogue: https://www.vogue.com/article/rosamond-bernier-the-flaming-debutante Rebecca's article about pockets for Cos: https://www.cosstores.com/gb/Studio/Projects/On_Pockets The Art of Manliness' take on man's pockets (2017): https://www.artofmanliness.com/2015/05/20/a-mans-pockets/ Danica Ollerova for Pause on men wearing handbags (2017): http://pausemag.co.uk/2017/04/will-men-start-rocking-womens-bags-this-season/ Jake Woolf for GQ on whether man purses are a thing (2016): https://www.gq.com/story/mens-shoulder-bag-man-purse-bag Some 19th century skirts with pockets at the Museum of London: https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/82094.html https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/81437.html https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/81519.html

We discuss gender binaries and barbershops, plus the art of flower making. Lauren Sherman, 'For Women, Hairstyles at the Barbershop', New York Times (11/12/2013): https://www.nytimes.com/2013/12/12/fashion/For-Women-Hairstyles-at-the-Barbershop.html F. Scott Fitzgerald, 'Bernice Bobs Her Hair' (1922): https://web.archive.org/web/20050830054426/http://www.sc.edu/fitzgerald/bernice/ Bassano Studio: https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/group/18241.html Flower Makers Museum: https://www.visit1066country.com/things-to-do/attractions/flower-makers-museum-p411891 The Lost Art of Flower Making (Museum of London blog post 2016): https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/discover/lost-art-flower-making Thomas Bloor, Last of the Flower Makers (1997): https://archive.org/details/lotfm

We discuss how Beatrice learnt to darn, and consider Jessica Jones and what superheroes should wear. Ray-Stitch: https://raystitch.co.uk/ Celia Pym: http://celiapym.com/ Annemor Sundbø: https://annemor.com/english/ Vladimir Arkhipov's Home-Made (2006): http://fuel-design.com/publishing/home-made/ Thérèse de Dillmont, Encyclopedia of Needlework (1886): https://www.gutenberg.org/files/20776/20776-h/chapter_2.html#linen_darning Jessica Jones (2015-): http://www.imdb.com/title/tt2357547/ Luke Cage (2016-): http://www.imdb.com/title/tt3322314/ Wonder Woman (2017): http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0451279/

We discuss why we think Edwardian women look like mermaids and the influence of jazz on interwar British art and design. Lucile gown (1911): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/81608.html Camille Clifford: https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw178842/Camille-Clifford-Camilla-Antoinette-Clifford Paule Morly: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Paule_Morly#/media/File:MORLY,_Paule_%C3%89toile._764-69._Photo_Stebbing.jpg Annette Kellerman: https://maas.museum/event/million-dollar-mermaid-annette-kellerman/ Edmond (Edmund)Dulac: http://expositions.bnf.fr/contes/grand/091_2.htm Rhythm & Reaction at Two Temple Place: https://twotempleplace.org/exhibitions/rhythm-and-reaction/ Autograph ABP: http://autograph-abp.co.uk/ Mark Matera, Black London (2015): https://www.ucpress.edu/book.php?isbn=9780520284302

We discuss how amazing Grace Jones is and imperfect clothes in museums. Sophie Fiennes (director), Grace Jones: Bloodlight & Bami (2017): http://www.imdb.com/title/tt6903636/ Francis Ford Coppola (director), Bram Stoker's Dracula(1992): http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0103874/ Grace Jones with Paul Morley, 'I Never Write My Memoirs' (2016): http://www.simonandschuster.com/books/Ill-Never-Write-My-Memoirs/Grace-Jones/9781476765082 Present Imperfect: Disorderly Apparel Reconfigured exhibition (2017): http://www.fashionspacegallery.com/exhibition/present-imperfect/

We discuss the significance of jeans in the film I,Tonya, and interpreting Claire McCardell’s Monastic dress. I,Tonya (2017): http://www.imdb.com/title/tt5580036/ Axel Yvon on Marithé + François Girbaud (2018): https://www.bonnegueule.fr/marithe-francois-girbaud-histoire-deux-techniciens-mode/ Igor Kopytoff, 'The cultural biography of things: commodization as process', in Arjun Appadurai, The social life of things, CUP 1986: http://socrates.acadiau.ca/courses/engl/rcunningham/ts2012/texts/intro/Kopytoff-Cultural_Biography.pdf Jules David Prown, 'The Truth of Material Culture: History or Fiction?', in Steven Lubar and W. David Kingery, History from Things, Smithsonian Institution Press 1993, pp. 1-19 Claire McCardell: http://fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu/view/people/asitem/items$0040:6603/ https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/84055 Rebecca Arnold, American Look: Fashion and the Image of Women in 1930's and 1940's New York, I.B. Tauris 2008: http://www.ibtauris.com/Books/Society--social-sciences/Society--culture-general/Cultural-studies/American-Look-Fashion-and-the-Image-of-Women-in-1930s-and-1940s-New-York

We discuss 18th century pleasure gardens and displaying historic fashions, and consider Gordon Parks’ fashion and documentary photographs. Miles, Ellie, 'A Museum of Everything: Making the Pleasure Gardens inside the Museum of London', The London Journal, vol. 38, no. 2 (July 2013), pp. 151-165 The Gordon Parks Foundation: http://www.gordonparksfoundation.org/ Roth, Lorna, ‘Looking at Shirley, The Ultimate Norm: Colour Balance, Image Technologies, & Cognitive Equity’, Canadian Journal of Communication, vol. 34 (2009), pp. 111-36 Douglas Sirk, Imitation of Life (1959): http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0052918/

We discuss Victor Stiebel’s tips for women, backstage beauty and the new Obama portraits. LCF Victor Stiebel Archive: https://vads.ac.uk/collections/LCFVS.html Beauty Instagrams: @patmcgrathreal @beautyisboring_ @violette_fr @morgane_martini @enywhitehead Doreen St. Félix on Amy Sherald's Michelle Obama portrait: https://www.newyorker.com/culture/annals-of-appearances/the-mystery-of-amy-sheralds-portrait-of-michelle-obama Vinson Cunningham on Kehinde Wiley's Barrack Obama portrait: https://www.newyorker.com/culture/annals-of-appearances/the-shifting-perspective-in-kehinde-wileys-portrait-of-barack-obama

We discuss the upcoming Conference on fashion and passing, and Raf Simons' references to Christiane F. in his latest collection. Passing: Fashion in American Cities conference, 5 May 2018, Courtauld Institute of Art, London: https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/passing-fashion-american-cities Nella Larsen: http://brbl-archive.library.yale.edu/exhibitions/cvvpw/gallery/larsen.html Georg Simmel, Metropolis and Mental Life (1903/1950): http://www.blackwellpublishing.com/content/bpl_images/content_store/sample_chapter/0631225137/bridge.pdf Fatberg at Museum of London: https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/museum-london/whats-on/exhibitions/fatberg Raf Simons, Fall 2018 collection: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-menswear/raf-simons Patrik Sandberg on Raf Simons' show for Dazed (8/2/18): http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/38937/1/last-nights-raf-simons-aw18-new-york-show-was-all-about-drugs

We discuss Phantom Thread and a visit to the V&A's stores to see haute couture. Phantom Thread official site: http://focusfeatures.com/phantom-thread Stephanie Zacharek's review for Time (21/12/2017): http://time.com/5075162/phantom-thread-movie-review/ Maytime in Mayfair (1949): http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0041647/ Extract from Making Fashion (1938): https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=g-7z2OiiqzA Callot Soeurs, 1922, V&A: http://m.vam.ac.uk/collections/item/O140706/afternoon-dress-callot-soeurs/ Madeleine Vionnet, 1937, V&A: http://m.vam.ac.uk/collections/item/O319608/dress-vionnet-madeleine/ Elsa Schiaparelli, 1938, V&A: http://m.vam.ac.uk/collections/item/O15665/the-circus-collection-evening-ensemble-elsa-schiaparelli/ Jacques Fath, 1949, V&A: http://m.vam.ac.uk/collections/item/O120382/dress-with-swag-fath-jacques/ Christian Dior, 1947/55, V&A: http://m.vam.ac.uk/collections/item/O75379/bar-skirt-suit-dior-christian/

We discuss why we think the latest Valentino haute couture collection was designed to be drawn and the women photographers that captured Weimar fashions. Valentino Spring 2018 Couture: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-couture/valentino#review Richard Haines Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/richard_haines/?hl=en Richard Brody on People On Sunday (1930): https://www.newyorker.com/culture/richard-brody/movie-week-people-sunday Frieda Riess or Die Riess: http://www.dasverborgenemuseum.de/exhibits/exhibit/die-riess-44-en Yva: http://www.dazeddigital.com/artsandculture/article/20704/1/yva-shattered-vision Rudolf Schlichter: http://www.gseart.com/Artists-Gallery/Schlichter-Rudolf/Schlichter-Rudolf-Biography.php Mila Ganeva - Women in Weimar Fashion (2008: https://boydellandbrewer.com/women-in-weimar-fashion.html

We discuss Kim Jones’ finale at Louis Vuitton, the proliferation of plastic and nylon raincoats in the menswear shows, and Bonnie Cashin’s inventive bag designs. Wear and Tear by Tracy Tynan: http://www.simonandschuster.com/books/Wear-and-Tear/Tracy-Tynan/9781501123696 Kim Jones Instagram: @mrkimjones Dries Van Noten instagram: @driesvannoten See all the shows on Vogue’s Runway App bonniecashin.org

We discuss the costumes of The Deuce (HBO 2017). The Deuce (2017) http://www.imdb.com/title/tt4998350/ Anna Terrazas hhttp://www.imdb.com/name/nm2607465/ Taxi Driver (1976)http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0075314/ The Panic in Needle Park (1971) http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0067549/ Katzelmacher (1969) http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0064536/ https://www.nytimes.com/2017/10/27/style/sex-worker-prostitute-fashion-the-deuce-blade-runner.html https://fashionista.com/2017/09/hbo-the-deuce-costumes

We discuss Visible Mending and Unzipped, the 1995 documentary about Isaac Mizrahi by Douglas Keeve. See links below. Visible Mending https://humantextilewellness.wordpress.com/ http://celiapym.com/ https://tomofholland.com/ http://www.woolfiller.com/ http://www.addresspublications.com/mended-scars/ http://goldenjoinery.com/#workshop Douglas Keeve (director), Unzipped (1995): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0114805/ and https://youtu.be/qNmJKsGylaY Ernst Lubitsch (director), I don’t want to be a man (1918): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0010281/ and https://youtu.be/bCmwaXkf8Xg Charles Bryant (director), Natacha Rambova (costume design), Salomé (1923): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0013571/ and https://youtu.be/Pt0DSbnf7q8